lAlTMNING  TOYS 


STATE  NORMAL  SCHOOL 

LOS  A1JGKLE3.  C.- 


LIBRARY 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS 

for  THE  BOY'S  WORKSHOP 


®y  HARRIS  W.  MOORE 

SUPERVISOR  OF  MANUAL  TRAINING 
WATERTOWN.  MASSACHUSETTS 


THE   MANUAL   ARTS   PRESS 
PEORIA,  ILLINOIS 


DEDICATED 

TO  THE   BOY   WHO  LIKES 
TO  TINKER  'ROUND 


Copyright,  1912 
IABRIS  W.  MOORE 


CONTENTS. 

Frontispiece Testing  the  Kite-string  Sailboat 

Introduction —  PAGE. 

Bench,  Marking  Tools 7 

Saws   8 

Planes,  Bits,  Nails 9 

Screws,  Glue   10 

Sandpaper,  Dowels,  Drills,  Sharpening 11 

Holding  Work  12 

Directions  for  Planing 13 

Dart 16 

Spool  Dart   18 

Dart  for  Whip-Bow 19 

Buzzer   20 

Flying  Top  (Plate  3) 22 

Flying  Top  (Plate  4) 24 

Top    26 

Tom-Tom  Drum  28 

Pop-gun    30 

Whistle    32 

Arrow  33 

Bow 34 

Sword  36 

Magic  Box 38 

Pencil-Box  41 

Telephone   42 

Happy  Jack  Windmill . 44 

Gloucester  "Happy  Jack"  Windmill 46 

Paddling  Indian  Windmill 48 

Kite  50 

Tailless  Kite ,53 

Box  Kite .54 


CONTENTS.— ( Continued. ) 

PAGE. 

Kite-String  Sailboat 56 

The  Hygroscope  or  Weather  Cottage 59 

Electro phorus 62 

Waterwheel 64 

Water  Motor   67 

Sand  Wheel  70 

Running  Wheel   73 

Rattle   • 76 

Cart 78 

Cannon    81 

Automobile 84 

Bow  Pistol 86 

Elastic  Gun  88 

Rattle-Bang  Gun  92 

Boat 95 

Pile-Driver   98 

Windmill 100 

Kite-String  Reel 103 

String  Machine   106 

Windmill  Force-Pump   • 108 


INTRODUCTION. 

The  wise  man  learns  from  the  experience  of  others.  That  is  the 
reason  for  this  introduction — to  tell  the  boy  who  wants  to  make  the 
toys  described  in  this  book  some  of  the  "tricks  of  the  trade."  It  is 
supposed,  however,  that  he  has  had  some  instruction  in  the  use  of 
tools. 

This  book  is  written  after  long  experience  in  teaching,  boys,  and 
because  of  that  experience,  the  author  desires  to  urge  upon  his 
younger  readers  two  bits  of  advice:  First,  study  the  drawing  care- 
fully,— every  line  has  a  meaning;  second,  printed  directions  become 
clearer  by  actually  taking  the  tool  in  hand  and  beginning  to  do  the 
work  described. 

BENCH. 

If  he  buys  the  vise-screw,  an  ambitious  boy  can  make  a  bench 
that  will  answer  his  needs,  provided,  also,  that  he  can  fasten  it  to 
floor  or  wall.  It  should  be  rigid.  A  beginner  will  find  a  hard  wood 
board,  10"x2"x%",  fastened  to  the  forward  end  of  the  bench,  a 
more  convenient  stop  than  the  ordinary  bench-dog.  If  he  has  a 
nicely  finished  bench,  he  should  learn  to  work  without  injuring  the 
bench.  A  cutting  board  should  always  be  at  hand  to  chisel  and  pound 
upon  and  to  save  the  bench-top  from  all  ill  use.  The  bench-hook 
should  have  one  side  for  sawing  and  one  for  planing,  the  former 
having  a  block  shorter  than  the  width  of  the  board  so  that  the  teeth 
of  the  saw,  when  they  come  thru  the  work,  will  strike  the  bench-hook 
rather  than  the  bench-top. 

MARKING  TOOLS. 

To  measure  accurately,  hold  the  ruler  on  its  edge  so  that  the 
divisions  on  the  scale  come  close  to  the  thing  measured.  Let  the 
pencil  or  knife  point  make  a  dash  on  the  thing  measured  which  would 
exactly  continue  the  division  line  on  the  ruler.  If  it  can  be  avoided, 
never  use  the  end  of  the  ruler;  learn  to  measure  from  some  figure  on 
the  ruler. 


8  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

The  spur  of  the  gage  should  be  filed  like  a  knife  point.  It  seldom 
stands  at  zero  of  the  scale,  hence,  when  setting  the  gage  for  accurate 
work,  measure  from  the  block  to  the  spur  with  a  ruler.  The  gage 
is  a  rather  difficult  tool  for  a  boy  to  use  but  it  will  pay  to  master  it. 
It  may  be  used  wherever  square  edges  are  to  be  made,  but  chamfers 
and  bevels  should  be  marked  with  a  pencil. 

In  laying  out  work,  the  beam  (the  thick  part)  of  the  trysquare 
should  always  be  kept  on  either  the  working-face  or  the  working-edge. 
(See  page  13,  Directions  for  Planing.)  Let  the  blade  rest  flat  on 
any  surface.  Hold  the  trysquare  snugly  to  the  work  with  the  fingers 
and  thumb  acting  much  like  a  bird's  claw. 

For  accurate  work  (e.  g.  joints),  lines  should  be  drawn  (scored) 
with  the  sharp  point  of  a  small  knife  blade,  held  nearly  straight  up 
from  the  edge  of  the  trysquare  blade. 

Circles  are  located  by  two  lines  crossing  at  the  center. 

SAWS. 

The  teeth  of  a  rip-saw  are  like  so  many  little  chisels  set  in  a  row ; 
they  pare  the  wood  away.  The  teeth  of  a  crosscut-saw  are  like  knife 
points,  they  score  two  lines,  and  the  wood  breaks  off  between  them. 
Large  sawing  should  be  done  on  a  saw-horse  so  that  the  worker  is 
over  his  work.  If  it  is  necessary  to  hold  work  in  the  vise  to  rip  it, 
hold  it  slanting,  so  that  the  handle  of  the  saw  leads  the  line,  as  it 
naturally  does  when  the  work  is  on  a  saw-horse. 

The  back-saw,  tho  a  crosscut-saw,  may  be  used  in  any  direction 
of  the  grain. 

Any  saw  should  be  in  motion  when  it  touches  the  wood  it  is 
to  cut.  To  guide  it  to  the  right  place,  a  workman  lets  his  thumb 
touch  the  saw  just  above  the  teeth,  the  hand  resting  firmly  on  the 
wood.  A  little  notch,  cut  in  the  edge  right  to  the  line  where  the  saw 
is  to  cut,  will  help  a  beginner  to  start  accurately.  Saws  are  rapid 
tools,  and  it  pays  to  go  slowly  enough  with  them  to  do  accurate 
work.  Plan  the  work  so  as  to  make  as  few  cuts  as  possible. 

Turning-saws  are  best  used  so  that  the  cutting  is  done  on  the  pull 
stroke,  keeping  the  two  hands  near  together.  When  one  handle  is 
turned,  the  other  must  be  turned  equally. 


INTRODUCTION. 


PLANES. 

Generally  being  in  a  hurry  to  get  work  done,  boys  are  apt  to  take 
big  shavings  with  a  plane.  This  results  in  rough  work.  Fine  shav- 
ings are  better.  If  the  plane  is  allowed  to  rest  level  on  the  work, 
it  will  find  the  high  places  without  continual  adjusting.  The  first 
two  inches  of  a  stroke  are  the  hardest  to  plane ;  to  plane  these,  press 
harder  on  the  forward  end  of  the  plane.  Start  the  plane  level. 
Usually  it  is  best  to  keep  the  plane  straight,  or  nearly  so,  in  the  di- 
rection of  the  push. 

The  'block-plane  is  properly  used  to  plane  the  end  of  wood.  (See 
page  12  on  Holding  Work.)  On  other  small  surfaces,  however,  it  is 
often  more  convenient  than  a  large  plane. 

BITS. 

Auger-bits  are  numbered  by  the  number  of  sixteenths  in  the  dia- 
meter of  the  hole  they  bore,  e.  g.  No.  4  bores  a  4/16"  hole.  Gimlet- 
bits  are  numbered  by  thirty-seconds. 

Whenever  boring  with  an  auger-bit,  stop  as  soon  as  the  spur 
pricks  thru  the  other  side,  turn  the  work  over,  start  the  spur  in 
the  little  hole  it  made,  and  finish  boring.  It  will  always  split  the 
wood,  if  the  bit  is  allowed  to  go  way  thru.  It  is  difficult  to  bore  a 
hole  straight  thru  a  piece  of  wood,  because  to  tell  whether  the  bit 
is  held  straight  when  starting  the  hole,  one  must  look  at  it  from  two 
directions  If  someone  else  can  stand  a  quarter  circle  away  from  the 
worker  and  watch  the  bit,  that  is  the  best  help ;  otherwise,  the  worker 
himself  must  hold  the  brace  steady  while  he  walks  around  a  quarter 
circle  and  judges  whether  the  bit  is  straight.  Care  should  be  taken 
to  hold  the  work  level  in  the  vise. 

NAILS. 

The  words,  "nail,"  "brad,"  and  "nailing"  are  used  somewhat  in- 
terchangeably in  this  book;  "nailing"  may  mean  driving  a  brad. 
Brads  have  smaller,  thicker  heads,  nails  have  larger,  flat  heads. 

To  drive  a  nail  straight,  start  it  straight.     The  hole  cannot  be 


10  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

straightened  by  bending  the  nail  so  that  it  looks  straight  after  it  is 
partly  driven.  Many  gentle  blows  with  the  hammer  will  often  drive 
a  nail  where  heavy  blows  would  fail.  The  fingers  pinching  the  nail 
often  prevent  its  bending.  If  possible,  keep  nails  away  from  the 
corners  of  boards.  Several  nails  joining  two  boards  hold  them 
stronger  if  the  nails  are  driven  at  different  angles.  Nails  are  usually 
"set,"  that  is,  the  heads  are  driven  with  a  nail-set  below  the  surface. 
They  must  always  be  set  below  surfaces  which  are  to  be  planed.  It 
is  often  wise  not  to  drive  the  first  nail  or  two  way  in  until  the  work 
is  examined.  In  withdrawing  nails,  a  block  under  the  hammer  will 
often  aid  greatly,  and  also  protect  the  surface  of  the  work. 

SCREWS. 

Screws  usually  need  holes  properly  bored  to  receive  them ;  a  large 
hole  first,  the  size  of  the  screw  above  the  threads,  a  small  hole  next, 
the  size  at  the  roots  of  the  threads  (in  hard  wood  somewhat  larger), 
and  a  place  for  the  head  made  with  a  counter-sink.  Usually  the 
screw  should  slip  easily  thru  the  first  piece  of  wood  and  be  tight  in 
the  second.  The  screwdriver  should  always  be  held  in  the  line  that 
the  screw  is  going,  and  it  ought  fairly  to  fit  the  slot  in  the  head.  In 
hard  wood,  one  must  be  careful  not  to  twist  screws  off,  especially 
brass  screws,  which  are  easily  broken. 

GLUE. 

A,-  beginner  often  wonders  why  things  stick  to  his  fingers  instead 
of  to  their  proper  places;  it  is  because  he  has  a;  little  glue  on  his 
fingers  and  usually  a  lot  on  the  article ;  therefore,  don't  use  too  much 
glue.  It  is  best,  especially  in  holes  and  their  pegs,  to  put  glue  on 
both  surfaces  of  contact.  Good  glue  will  hold  two  surfaces,  making 
good  contact,  stronger  than  the  wood.  Wipe  off  excess  glue  as  soon 
as  possible,  using  hot  water  for  hot  glue.  Much  labor  is  thus  saved. 
Allow  glue  plenty  of  time  to  become  dry.  The  moisture  has  to  work 
its  way  thru  the  wood  itself,  and  this  takes  hours;  six  to  ten  hours 
is  not  too  long. 


INTRODUCTION.  11 


SANDPAPER. 

Sandpaper  varies  in  coarseness  from  No.  00  to  No.  3,  every  sheet 
being  stamped.  It  should  not  be  used  on  a  given  piece  until  all  work 
with  edge  tools  is  finished.  The  particles  of  sand  left  in  the  surface 
would  quickly  dull  an  edge  tool.  When  using  sandpaper  on  flat  sur- 
faces, wrap  it  closely  about  a  rectangular  block  of  wood.  Try  to 
keep  all  corners  as  sharp  as  they  are  left  by  the  edge  tools  so  that 
there  will  be  a  crispness  of  appearance  which  always  marks  good  work- 
manship. Often  the  same  care  in  holding  work  while  sandpapering 
it  must  be  taken  as  was  taken  when  shaping  it.  Always  sandpaper 
with,  or  lengthwise  the  grain. 

DOWELS. 

Sticks  that  are  planed  nearly  to  size  can  be  made  round  and 
smooth  by  driving  them  thru  a  hole  in  a  block  of  hard  wood  or  iron; 
such  sticks  are  called  dowels.  Two  holes  may  be  used  if  the  second 
is  only  a  little  smaller  than  the  first.  Drive  gently  with  a  mallet 
rather  than  with  a  hammer.  In  many  of  the  models  in  this  book 
such  dowels  are  used.  Dowels  (made  by  a  different  process,  how- 
ever,) can  often  be  bought  at  hardware  stores. 

DRILLS. 

For  ease  in  making  small  holes,  a  hand-drill  is  essential.  For  some 
holes  a  headless  nail  will  answer.  To  make  better  drills,  break  a  needle, 
a  knitting-needle,  umbrella  rib,  or  other  piece  of  hard  wire  to  suit- 
able length;  on  a  grindstone,  flatten  it  near  the  point  on  two  sides; 
then,  putting  it  in  the  chuck  of  the  hand-drill,  try  to  hold  it  on  the 
grindstone  at  the  proper  angle  to  form  the  "two  cutting  edges;  or  it 
may  be  held  against  the  edge  of  the  bench  and  sharpened  with  an 
oilstone  resting  on  top  of  the  bench.  Very  convenient  long  drills 
can  be  thus  made  of  knitting-needles. 

SHARPENING. 

To  work  with  dull  tools  is  altogether  unsatisfactory.  A  boy  should 
learn  to  sharpen  his  own  edge  tools.  To  grind  a  good  bevel  on  a  tool 


12  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

like  a  chisel,  it  must  rest  upon  something  steady.  The  reflection  of  light 
on  the  newly  ground  surface  will  indicate  whether  the  surface  is  flat 
or  not.  This  process  of  grinding  makes  what  is  called  a  feather- 
edge,  or  wire-edge,  and  the  tool  must  be  whetted  on  an  oilstone  to 
remove  this  wire-edge.  The  flat  side  must  be  kept  flat  on  the  stone ; 
the  bevel  may  be  lifted  just  a  trifle.  When  whetting  the  bevel,  try 
to  avoid  a  rocking  motion,  for  this  would  round  the  edge.  After 
the  wire-edge  is  completely  removed,  a  still  keener  edge  can  be  ob- 
tained by  stropping  the  tool  on  a  piece  of  leather,  much  as  a  razor 
is  stropped.  A  piece  of  leather  glued  to  a  wooden  mount  and 
sprinkled  occasionally  with  the  finest  emery  powder  will  help  much 
in  keeping  the  edge  tools  keen. 

HOLDING  WORK. 

The  way  work  is  held  in  the  vise  often  makes  the  difference  be- 
tween success  and  failure.  Small  surfaces  are  easily  planed  true  if 
held  almost  flush  with  the  jaws  of  the  vise  so  that  the  top  of  the 
bench  serves  to  guide  the  plane;  for  example,  the  wheel-center,  page 
20,  or  the  crank,  Plate  33,  are  easily  planed  in  this  manner.  Some- 
times articles,  like  spools,  can  be  held  endwise  with  safety  when  they 
might  be  crushed  if  squeezed  sidewise. 

A  good  way  to  hold  the  paddles  of  the  sand  wheel,  Plate  21,  Fig. 
4,  to  saw  the  lines  A  B  is  to  put  the  paddles  about  half-way  down  the 
end  of  the  vise  so  that  the  back-saw  can  be  held  near  the  end  of  the 
vise  jaws. 

The  bench-hook  is  the  best  device  for  holding  a  great  deal  of 
small  work  for  sawing  and  for  planing  sides,  corners,  and  ends. 
When  planing  ends,  to  avoid  splitting  the  far  corner,  another  piece 
of  equal  thickness  may  be  put  behind  the  first.  The  better  way, 
however,  is  never  to  plane  over  the  far  corner,  but  turn  the  work  and 
plane  always  towards  the  center;  in  other  words,  plane  half  way 
from  each  edge.  Where  a  corner  can  be  whittled  off  to  form  a  but- 
tress, there  is  practically  no  danger  of  splitting  that  corner.  For 
planing  thin  boards,  see  page  19. 


INTRODUCTION.  13 


DIRECTIONS  FOR  PLANING. 

1.  Plane  one  broad  surface.     Test  it  crosswise,  lengthwise,  and 
cornerwise.     This  surface  is  called  the  working-face,  and  should  be 
marked  with  a  pencil  line  near  the  edge  to  be  planed  next.     On  a 
short  board  the  cornerwise  test  can  be  made  with  a  straight-edge ;   on 
a  long  board  winding-sticks  are  needed.     These  are  straight  sticks 
with  parallel  edges.    Near  the  ends  of  the  board,  stand  them  on  edge 
across  the  board.     With  the  eye  some  distance  away,  sight  from  one 
stick  to  the  other,  if  one  end  of  the  farther  stick  seems  elevated,  that 
corner  of  the  board  must  be  planed  more. 

2.  Plane  one  edge.     Test  it  crosswise  with  the  trysquare  on  the 
working-face,  and  lengthwise  with  a  straight-edge.     This  is  called 
the  working-edge.     Mark  it  with  two  pencil  lines,  drawn  near  the 
line  on  the  working-face. 

These  two  surfaces  are  of  great  importance.  From  them  all 
measurements  are  made  and  all  tests  applied.  The  trysquare  and  the 
gage  should  always  be  kept  on  one  of  these  two  surfaces. 

3.  Square  the  ends.    With  the  trysquare,  test  them  from  both  the 
working-face  and  the  working-edge. 

4.  Gage  the  width  from  the  working-edge.     Plane  to  the  line. 
With  the  trysquare  on  the  working-face,  test  this  edge. 

5.  Gage  the  thickness  from  the  working-face.    Plane  to  the  line. 
Sometimes,  of  course,  the  above  order  needs  to  be  changed.     It 

is  well  to  think  out  the  best  order  of  work. 


PROBLEMS 
PLATES  AND  WORKING  DIRECTIONS 


16  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOTS. 

DAET— PLATE  1. 

A  dart  like  the  first  one  shown  on  Plate  1  will  stick  into  a  soft 
wooden  target.  Two  or  more  boys,  each  with  three  darts,  might  have 
a  contest  in  making  the  highest  score.  Number  three  rings  of  a  tar- 
get 5,  10,  and  15,  and  the  bull's  eye  25. 

The  dart  consists  of  two  parts,  a  round  stick  and  a  paper  rudder. 
To  make  the  round  stick,  7"  long  y4"  diameter,  it  will  be  well  to 
start  with  a  stick  about  9"  long  so  as  to  be  able  to  hold  it  easily  while 
planing  it  round.  First  plane  the  stick  square,  y^' ',  and  straight. 
To  plane  such  a  small  stick  straight,  it  should  be  laid  on  the  top  of 
the  bench.  While  planing  it,  test  it  frequently  by  looking  at  it  end- 
wise. When  it  is  the  right  size,  grasp  one  end  with  the  left  hand, 
lay  it  on  the  bench  with  the  forefinger  touching  the  bench,  and,  with 
a  small  plane,  plane  away  the  corners  so  as  to  make  a  true  octagonal 
(eight  sided)  stick.  Next  make  it  sixteen  sided,  taking  very  fine 
shavings,  then  sandpaper  it  well.  Saw  off  the  extra  length,  leaving 
the  best  part  of  the  stick  7"  long. 

Bind  one  end  with  fine  (screen)  wire.  To  bind  it  well,  make  a 
square  corner  1"  from  one  end  of  the  wire  and  lay  this  1"  lengthwise 
the  stick.  Hold  it  firmly  with  the  left  thumb  while  winding  the  long 
part  of  the  wire  smoothly  around  the  stick  and  wire.  Twist  the  two 
ends  together,  and  cut  off  what  is  not  needed.  Gently  pound  down 
smooth  the  end  of  the  wire  that  is  left. 

In  this  end  of  the  stick,  drill  a  hole  for  a  1"  brad.  File  the  head 
entirely  off,  and  drive  the  brad  in  backwards,  leaving  3/16"  out;  then 
file  the  point  real  sharp.  Carefully  split  the  other  end  of  the  stick 
1".  To  do  this,  stand  it  upright  in  the  vise,  place  a  knife  on  the  end, 
and  tap  the  knife  with  a  hammer.  Into  this  split,  insert  the  paper 
rudder  bent  as  shown  in  Plate  1.  The  rudder  should  be  cut  the 
shape  and  size  shown  in  the  working  drawing  and  then  bent  into 
shape. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


r* 

li 


18  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

SPOOL  DART— PLATE  1. 

An  easier  dart  to  throw  can  be  made  of  a  spool  as  shown  on  Plate 
1.  Three  feathers  which  curve  the  same  way  will  give  the  dart  a 
whirling  motion  when  it  is  thrown. 

Make  a  stick  about  7"  long  to  fit  tightly  into  the  hole  of  a  spool 
about  1"  in  diameter  at  its  end.  (See  Dowels,  page  11,  also  Glue, 
page  10.)  A  stick;  like  this  can  be  forced  into  a  hole  quite  far  by 
screwing  it  around,  but  if  it  is  driven  much  with  a  hammer  the 
spool  will  split  easily.  After  the  stick  is  glued  into  the  spool,  hold 
the  spool  upright  on  the  jaws  of  the  vise,  and  squeeze  the  stick 
extending  below;  then  with  the  back-saw  make  four  slanting  cuts  to 
sharpen  the  spool.  File  a  2^4"  nail  square  off,  1"  long;  drive  it 
backwards  into  a  suitable  hole  drilled  for  it  in  the  center  of  the 
spool ;  and  sharpen  it  well  with  a  file.  One-half  inch  from  the  other 
end  of  the  spool  saw  the  stick  off,  and  drill  three  holes  in  the  spool 
end,  into  which  glue  three  feathers  about  4"  long. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS.  19 

DAET  FOE  WHIP-BOW.     PLATE  1. 

This  dart  is  best  made  of  a  shingle.  Lacking  that,  plane  a  ^2" 
board  thin*  at  one  end  to  %".  Draw  the  center  line  lengthwise  and 
lay  out  the  shape  of  the  dart  with  the  broad  part  at  the  thin  end. 
Saw  crosswise  from  each  edge  of  the  shingle  to  the  place  where  the 
curve  begins,  then  lengthwise  to  that  point.  Holding  the  thin  end 
in  the  vise,  pare  the  curves  with  a  knife,  spokeshave,  or  draw-knife. 
Make  the  point  at  each  end  with  a  plane.  To  plane  to  slanting  lines 
such  as  these,  it  is  very  important  to  place  the  work  in  the  vise  at 
such  a  slant  that  the  line  is  parallel  with  the  top  of  the  bench  and 
quite  close  to  the  jaws  of  the  vise.  Find  the  point  where  the  dart 
balances  by  testing  it  on  the  finger,  and  make  the  little  notch  for  the 
string,  using  a  back-saw  first,  then  a  knife. 

A  whip-bow  consists  of  a  string  20"  long  tied  to  the  end  of  a 
stick  20"  long.  A  knot  is  tied  at  the  free  end  of  the  string.  To 
throw  the  dart,  catch  the  string  in  the  notch,  hold  the  wide  end  of 
the  dart  in  the  left  hand  and  the  stick  in  the  right,  throw  the  right 
hand  forward,  and  let  the  dart  fly  from  the  string. 


*To  hold  a  board  while  planing  it  very  thin,  fasten  it  to  another  flat 
board  with  four  wooden  pegs. 

For  several  of  the  models  in  this  book,  a  flat  board  about  9"x4"x%" 
with  a  cleat  nailed  to  one  end  and  extending  y%"  above  its  upper  surface 
will  be  found  most  convenient  for  holding  thin  boards  while  planing.  If 
the  cleat  is  a  little  wider  than  the  height  of  the  block  on  the  bench-hook, 
the  bench-hook  serves  well  to  hold  it. 


20 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


BUZZER— PLATE  2. 

The  buzzer  consists  of  a  wheel  and  two  handles,  connected  with 
string.  To  make  the  wheel  draw  a  3"  circle  on  a  piece  of  wood  3/16" 
thick.  Draw  a  line  thru  the  center  the  way  the  grain  goes  and 
another  at  right  angles  to  it,  thus  dividing  the  circle  into  quarters, 
Fig.  1.  Xotice,  now,  that  to  avoid  splitting  the  circle,  the  four  quar- 
ters must  each  be  cut  in  a  different  direction.  Lay  the  model  flat, 
on  the  bench-hook  and  saw  off  the  corners  of  the  square.  Now,  hold- 
ing it  in  the  vise  with  one  quarter  up,  with  the 
spokeshave,  pare  the  corners  in  the  direction  of  the 
arrow  in  this  quarter  until  the  circle  is  reached. 
Be  careful  not  to  pare  away  any  part  of  the  line. 
It  will  be  observed  that  paring  can  be  done  safely 
on  the  end  grain  beyond  the  arrow-head  in  this 
Fig  !  quarter,  but  this  is  not  at  all  possible  on  the 

side  grain  where  the  arrow  begins.  The  spokeshave  should  be  held 
rather  lightly  so  as  to  allow  it  to  follow  the  curve.  Observing  care- 
fully the  direction  of  the  arrows,  proceed  with  the  other  quarters  in 
this  same  manner.  The  last  few  chips  should  be  very  fine  ones.  Drill 
two  small  holes  for  the  string  %"  each  side  of  the  center.  Sandpaper 
the  model  nicely.  (See  Sandpaper,  page  11.) 

The  two  handles  can  be  planed  best  if  held  in  the  bench-hook  and 
the  plane  turned  with  its  side  on  the  top  of  the  bench.  After  the 
corners  are  planed  in  this  way,  the  ends  can  be  planed  without  dan- 
ger of  splitting.  Drill  the  holes  for  the  string.  The  edges  and  ends 
of  the  handles  will  look  better  not  sandpapered. 

String  the  model  by  passing  one  end  of  a  3  ft.  string  thru  a  hole 
in  one  handle,  then  in  the  wheel,  then  in  the  other  handle,  then  back 
thru  the  other  holes,  tying  it  to  the  other  end  of  the  string.  To  make 
it  go,  take  one  handle  in  each  hand,  swing  the  wheel  over  and  over, 
and  gently  pull  the  handles  apart  for  an  instant.  A  little  practice  may 
be  necessary  to  make  it  go  well.  To  make  it  buzz  louder,  bore  two 
5/16"  holes  on  opposite  parts  of  the  wheel  YZ"  from  the  rim.  (See 
Bits,  page  9.)  To  avoid  splitting,  bore  backwards  till  the  bit  marks  a 
deep  circle  in  the  wood. 


MANUAL  TKAINING  TOTS. 


•21 


BUZZER 


1    HANDLES 


/    WHEEL 


22  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

FLYING  TOP— PLATE  3. 

Like  anything  that  flies,  this  top  should  be  made  as  light  as 
possible.  Bass,  cotton-wood,  or  soft  pine  are  good  woods  to  use. 
After  the  wood  for  the  top  is  planed  to  size,,  a  3/16"  hole  should  be 
bored  straight  thru  the  center.  (See  Bits,  page  9.)  Make  the  draw- 
ing on  the  top  and  whittle  to  line.  Considerable  care  must  be  taken 
in  whittling  not  to  whittle  away  the  two  corners  which  should  be 
saved;  this  is  especially  true  if  the  grain  is  not  straight.  See  page 
16  for  suggestions  about  making  the  handle.  Glue  the  handle  in 
the  top.  To  make  it  fly,  hold  it  between  the  two  hands,  and  push  the 
right  one  quickly.  (See  Plate  3.) 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


23 


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o 

*-!£ 


24  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

FLYING  TOP— PLATE  4. 

This  form  of  flying  top  requires  accurate  work  to  make  a  good 
joint.  (See  Directions  for  Planing,  page  13.)  After  planing  the 
two  vanes  to  size,  the  joint  must  be  laid  out  with  knife  and  gage 
lines  and  cut  out  with  back-saw  and  chisel.  Two  important  facts 
should  be  learned:  The  length  of  one  notch  equals  the  width  of  the 
other  piece;  the  lines  marking  the  depth  of  the  notches  must  be 
gaged  from  the  working-face  of  each  piece.  After  the  joint  is  laid 
out,  hold  the  work  in  the  bench-hook  while  sawing  the  depth  of  the 
notch,  and  be  sure  to  saw  in  the  notch,  not  outside  the  line.  With  a 
chisel  held  flat  side  down,  pare  between  the  saw  cuts  from  each  side 
of  the  wood  towards  the  middle.  When  the  joint  is  fitted,  lay  out 
the  curves  on  each  arm  of  the  wheel,  remembering  that  it  is  always 
the  front  corner  of  the  right-hand  arm,  as  the  wheel  turns  around, 
that  is  to  be  whittled  away.  When  all  these  curves  are  drawn,  take 
the  joint  apart,  and  whittle  to  the  lines.  Glue  the  joint  next,  and 
bore  a  3/16"  hole  straight  thru  its  center.  Make  the  axle  of  hard 
wood.  (See  page  16  and  Dowels,  page  11.)  Perhaps  a  skewer  can 
be  used. 

After  the  handle  is  planed  to  size,  draw  pencil  lines  Y\"  from  each 
edge  for  the  chamfers.  The  curve  of  the  chamfer  may  be  drawn 
freehand.  It  should  end  1  1/16"  from  one  end  of  the  handle.  A  good 
chamfer  is  flat  crosswise.  If  the  grain  of  the  wood  is  straight,  the 
chamfers  can  be  whittled  easily ;  if  it  is  crooked  watch  that  it  does  not 
split  over  the  line.  After  the  chamfers  are  made,  pare  another  one 
}i"  wide  around  the  end  of  the  handle.  After  the  two  blocks  are 
planed,  bore  a  J4"  hole  ^"  from  one  end.  Glue  and  nail  them  1"  on 
the  handle. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


25 


26  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

TOP— PLATE  5. 

A  variety  of  sizes,  shapes  and  colors  of  tops,  spinning  on  a  plate, 
is  a  lively  sight.  The  one  suggested  is  perhaps  as  large  as  it  should  be 
made  for  such  sport.  Smaller  ones  are  easily  made  of  spools  without 
making  a  disk,  or  wheel,  for  them.  The  more  slender  the  spindle  is, 
the  faster  one  can  spin  the  top.  First  make  a  stick  about  6"  long  to 
fit  the  hole  in  the  spool.  Plane  1"  of  it  tapering  as  small  as  J4", 
then  glue  the  spool  on  \y\"  below  this  small  end.  Now  hold  the 
spool  in  the  vise  endwise,  and  make,  with  the  back-saw,  a  saw  cut 
half  thru  the  spool  on  the  same  slant  as  the  slanting  part  of  the 
spool;  then  saw  straight  down  to  the  end  of  this  slanting  cut.  Turn 
the  spool  nearly  over  and  repeat  this  operation;  then  saw  it  com- 
pletely off,  and  whittle  the  spool  to  a  good  point. 

Draw  a  2"  circle  on  a  piece  of  wood  l/\"  thick.  Draw  other  circles 
just  as  desired  for  coloring.  Observe  the  directions  on  page  20  for 
making  a  wheel.  When  the  wheel  is  round,  bore  a  5/16"  hole  in  its 
center,  sandpaper  it,  and  glue  it  in  place  on  the  spool  and  spindle 
It  can  be  colored  with  crayons  or  water  colors. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


27 


TOP 


m 


LONft  WIDE  THICK 


I    WHEEL 


Z    DI 


SPINDLE 


!    5POOL  END 


28  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

TOM-TOM  DRUM— PLATE  6. 

As  in  a  violin,  the  sounding  qualities  of  this  drum  depend  upon 
the  quality  of  the  wood  used  and  the  thickness  of  the  sounding-board. 
Spruce  is  a  good  wood  to  use,  though  the  drum-stick  may  well  be 
harder. 

A  good  way  to  make  two  pieces  the  same  length  and  thickness  is 
to  plane  one  piece,  which  is  wider  than  the  two  pieces  combined,  to 
the  right  length  and  thickness,  and  then  saw  it  in  two  lengthwise; 
so,  to  make  the  top  and  between  pieces  it  will  be  best  to  start  with 
one  piece  about  6"x%"x5/16".  If  no  wood  */&"  thick  for  the  sounding- 
boards  is  at  hand,  plane  a  thicker  piece  nicely  on  all  surfaces 
3"x2"x5/16".  Then  gage  a  line  y$"  from  each  broad  surface  all 
around  the  piece  and  saw  between  these  lines.  To  plane  these  two 
pieces,  lay  them  on  the  board  described  in  the  foot-note  on  page  19. 

Glue  and  nail  the  parts  together  with  very  small  brads,  or  pins 
cut  off  Y*"  -  Allow  the  glue  to  dry  six  to  ten  hours  before  twisting 
the  drumstick  in  the  strings.  Cut  a  small  notch  near  the  ends  of 
the  top  pieces  in  which  to  wind  two  or  three  strands  of  string.  Twist 
the  drumstick  in  the  opposite  way  from  which  it  should  strike  the 
sounding-board.  To  play  it,  hold  it  in  the  left  hand,  and  let  the 
fingers  of  the  right  hand  slide  over  the  end  of  the  drum-stick,  thus 
making  the  drum-stick  strike  the  sounding-board. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


29 


CC 
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(V  CO  CO 


30  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

POP-GUN— PLATE  7. 

The  part  of  this  model  difficult  to  make  is  a  nice,  smooth  hole. 
The  surest  way  is  to  start  with  a  thick  piece  of  wood  for  the  barrel, 
6"xl^"xlj4".  Draw  a  %"  circle  on  one  end;  then  bore  the  7/16" 
hole  as  straight  as  possible,  starting  at  the  center  of  the  circle.  Stop 
boring  as  soon  as  the  spur  of  the  bit  pricks  thru  the  other  end,  and 
draw  another  %"  circle,  setting  the  needle-point  of  the  compass  in 
the  tiny  hole  made  by  the  spur;  then  finish  boring.  Next  plane  the 
piece  round  the  size  of  the  circles.  The  ramrod  should  be  made  as 
directed  on  page  16.  The  hole  should  now  be  sandpapered  by  wrap- 
ping a  long,  narrow  piece  of  sandpaper  snugly  about  the  ramrod, 
and  tying  it  securely  at  each  end  with  string.  Make  the  handle,  be- 
ing careful  to  bore  the  hole  straight  1"  deep,  and  glue  the  ramrod 
into  it. 

Cut  off  y%'  of  that  part  of  a  cork  which  fits  tightly  in  the  barrel. 
Drive  a  slender  nail  or  brad  thru  a  piece  of  hard  leather  (or  zinc 
or  copper)  and  trim  it  round  l/\"  diameter.  Drill  a  small  hole  ex- 
actly in  the  center  of  the  end  of  the  ramrod,  then  drive  the  nail  thru 
the  center  of  the  cork  a'nd  into  the  ramrod. 

To  make  the  hole  in  the  barrel  still  better,  let  a  few  drippings 
from  a  candle  fall  into  it  and  quickly  insert  the  ramrod  and  push  it 
back  and  forth  rapidly.  A  sudden  push  of  the  ramrod  will  blow  the 
other  cork  out  with  a  loud  pop.  To  keep  this  cork,  tie  one  end  of  a 
string  around  it  and  the  other  end  around  the  barrel. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


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32  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

WHISTLE— PLATE  7. 

The  size  of  the  chamber,  of  the  notch,  of  the  inlet  for  air,  the 
force  with  which  air  is  blown  in, — these  are  some  of  the  conditions 
which  affect  the  tone  of  a  whistle. 

Plane  a  piece  of  close-grained  wood  6"x^"x^".  This  length  is 
suggested  so  that  two  trials  at  boring  can  be  made.  Bore  a  I4"  hole 
2/4"  deep.  To  help  in  boring  this  straight,  clamp  a  straight-edge 
(the  ruler  may  do)  in  the  vise  together  with  the  square  stick.  Have 
one  edge  of  the  straight-edge  on  the  center  of  one  side  of  the  stick. 
After  boring  a  straight  hole,  draw  pencil  lines  3/16"  from  the  long 
edges  on  all  four  sides.  A  good  way  to  draw  such  lines  is  to  rest  the 
middle  finger-nail  on  a  side  of  the  stick  as  a  guide  and  hold  the 
pencil  closely  over  this  nail  while  sliding  it  along.  The  hand  must 
be  held  rather  rigid.  Practice  will  enable  one  to  draw  lines  quite  ac- 
curately this  way.  Place  the  stick  in  the  vise  so  that  one  edge  is 
straight  up,  and  plane  the  corner  off  to  the  line.  Plane  all  four  cor- 
ners so  as  to  make  a  good  octagonal  stick.  Make  a  dowel  (see  page 
11)  about  1^2"  long  to  fit  nicely  in  the  hole.  Do  not  crowd  it  so 
hard  as  to  split  the  whistle.  It  might  well  be  fitted  first  in  a  YZ" 
hole  bored  in  a  waste  piece  of  wood.  Plane  off  a  side  of  this  dowel 
till  a  flat  place  is  made  ^"  wide.  Push  the  dowel  into  the  whistle 
and  saw  the  straight  end  of  the  notch  about  3/16"  deep.  Pare  the 
rest  of  the  notch  with  knife  or  chisel,  testing  the  whistle  by  blowing 
it  occasionally  as  the  paring  proceeds.  When  it  sounds  best,  glue  the 
dowel  in  place  and  allow  it  to  dry  before  sawing  it  off  and  cutting 
the  slanting  part.  When  this  is  done  saw  the  whistle  to  a  length  of 
2^4".  If  a  rolling  sound  is  desired,  put  in  a  pea  before  gluing  the 
dowel  in  place. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS.  33 

AKROW— PLATE  8. 

The  old  saying,  "Straight  as  an  arrow,'"'  suggests  an  arrow's  most 
important  quality:  it  must  be  straight.  Saw  a  strip  20"x^"  from 
the  edge  of  a  straight-grained  spruce  board  and  plane  it  according  to 
directions  on  page  16.  To  make  the  notch  for  the  bow-string,  first 
file  a  notch  in  the  smaller  end,  then  saw  it  }4"  deep,  and  smooth  it 
with  the  folded  edge  of  a  piece  of  sandpaper.  Bind  the  larger  end 
tightly  with  rather  small,  soft  wire.  (See  page  16.)  Pigeon  feath- 
ers are  easiest  to  use  because  the  quills  are  soft  and  straight.  Turkey 
and  goose  feathers  are  good,  and  hen  feathers  will  do  if  they 
are  nearly  straight.  The  quill  should  be  split  with  the  point  of  a 
small,  sharp  knife,  the  feather  being  held  on  a  cutting  board.  About 
3"  of  quill  are  needed.  With  scissors,  trim  the  feather  about  5/16" 
wide;  then  glue  and  pin  it  in  place  1/4"  from  the  smaller  end  of  the 
arrow.  Indians  use  three  feathers,  but  two  will  do  for  a  boy.  When 
the  feathers  are  in  place,  the  ends  of  the  quills  must  be  bound  very 
smoothly  and  tightly  with  thread.  Notice  the  position  of  the  feathers 
in  Plate  8 :  the  bottom  feather  on  the  arrow  having  three  feathers  is 
called  the  cock-feather  and  should  be  of  a  different  color  from  the 
other  two.  It  is  always  placed  on  the  bowstring  away  from  the  bow. 


34  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

BOW— PLATE  8. 

Almost  any  tough  stick  that  will  bend  to  a  good  curve  will  answer 
for  a  bow,  but  white  ash  such  as  is  used  in  hoe-  and  rake-handles  is 
probably  best  and  easiest  to  get.  A  brittle  wood  like  hemlock  can  be 
used,  if  used  with  great  care;  indeed,  some  Eskimos,  who  can  get 
only  dry,  brittle  driftwood,  still  make  a  splendid  bow  by  wrapping  it 
completely  with  sinew.  The  bow  should  be  shorter  than  the  archer. 
Plane  each  end  tapering,  first  on  the  bottom,  then  on  the  two  edges. 
Leave  6"  in  the  middle  straight  for  a  handle.  Notice  the  shape, 


Timber-hitch  knot  Fig-  2  Bowline-knot 

Plate  8,  of  the  three  steps  in  the  planing  of  the  bow.  Be  especially 
careful  to  get  the  second  step  right,  then  the, third  will  come  easily. 
File  notches  near  each  end  somewhat  the  shape  of  the  loop  on  the 
bowstring.  Before  the  bow  can  be  finished,  it  must  be  strung  and 
pulled  a  little  to  test  it, — to  see  if  both  ends  bend  the  same  good 
curve, — not  the  curve  of  a  circle,  but  that  of  the  broad  side  of  an 
ellipse.  The  ends  should  curve  more  than  the  middle.  When  it  bends 
true,  smooth  it  well  with  a  coarse  file,  or  glass,  and  sandpaper.  Do 
not  be  tempted  to  pull  the  bow  too  far  and  so  break  it ;  one  that  bends 
easily  is  less  apt  to  break  than  one  that  is  too  strong.  When  the  bow 
is  strung,  the  center  of  it  and  of  the  bowstring  should  be  marked  with 
thread  or  color. 

A  piece  of  strong  fish-line  makes  a  good  bowstring.  A  good  one 
can  be  made  of  linen  thread  on  the  string  machine  shown  on  Plate  34. 
Tie  knots  as  shown  in  Fig.  2.  The  timber-hitch  should  be  kept 
in  place  on  the  bow,  and  the  bowline-knot  slipped  back  on  the  bow 
when  it  is  unstrung.  The  best  way  to  string  a  bow  is  to  place  the  end 
having  the  timber-hitch  on  the  ground  against  one's  left  foot,  then  to 
pull  the  middle  of  the  bow  with  the  left  hand,  and  to  push  the  upper 
part  with  the  right  hand,  allowing  this  hand  to  slide  upward  so  as 
to  shove  the  bowline-knot  into  the  upper  notch.  When  finished  the 
bow  can  be  improved  by  rubbing  it  well  with  grease. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


35 


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36  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

SWORD— PLATE  9. 

Plane  the  blade  to  size,  then  draw  a  center  line  on  each  side,  and 
lay  out  the  curves  for  the  point  and  handle.  Shape  these  ends  with 
the  draw-knife,  spokeshave,  or  block-plane.  Now  measure  5"  for  the 
handle,  and  draw  a  line  along  the  center  of  each  edge  to  mark  the 
cutting  edges  of  the  sword.  A  workman  would  do  this  with  his  pen- 
cil resting  over  his  finger-nail  as  mentioned  on  page  32.  Use  the 
spokeshave  to  pare  off  the  four  corners  (to  sharpen  the  sword),  and 
finish  them  with  a  plane.  Try  to  take  broad,  flat  chips  so  as  to  make 
the  blade  a  good  diamond  shape.  Where  the  blade  and  handle  meet 
a  good  square  shoulder  must  be  made.  A  boy  can  do  this  best,  per- 
haps, with  a  wide,  flat  file,  though  a  workman  would  use  a  back-saw 
and  chisel. 

Saw  out  the  guard  5"x3"x^'r ;  then  draw  the  diamond  \l/2"  long 
and  YZ"  wide.  It  is  not  easy  for  a  boy  to  cut  this  out,  so  be  careful 
and  guard  against  splitting  the  board.  First  drill  small  holes  at  each 
end  of  the  diamond,  then  bore  other  holes  as  large  as  will  go  within 
the  diamond,  Plate  9.  With  a  thin  chisel  pare  straight  thru  the 
board  onto  a  cutting  board.  When  the  diamond  will  fit  the  blade, 
draw  the  shape  of  the  guard  freehand  and  pare  the  edges  as  explained 
for  the  buzzer  on  page  20.  Sandpaper  both  parts  of  the  sword,  and 
fasten  the  guard  with  glue  and  two  2"  brads,  driven  from  each  edge 
of  the  guard  in  holes  drilled  for  the  purpose. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


37 


O 

§ 

CO 


LA 


00 


38  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

MAGIC  BOX— PLATE  10. 

This  is  truly  a  magic  box  to  those  who  do  not  understand  how  it 
works.  Who  would  ever  think  that  these  little  bits  of  people  would 
hop  up  and  down  inside  their  house  just  because  their  window  was 
rubbed  with  a  piece  of  leather  ?  Try  it  and  see  how  excited  they  get. 

If  the  worker  can  cut  glass,  make  the  box  first,  otherwise  he  must 
get  a  piece  of  glass  5^2 "x3"  and  build  the  box  to  fit  it.  It  requires 
careful  work  to  make  a  good  box,  so  be  sure  that  all  ends  and  edges 
are  square  and  that  corresponding  parts  are  the  same  size  before  nail- 
ing it  together.  Plane  all  such  small  boards  in  the  bench-hook.  Make 
the  ends  first  1"  wide  and  as  long  as  the  glass  is  wide.  Make  the 
sides  the  same  width  and  as  long  as  the  glass,  plus  the  thickness  of 
the  two  ends.  Glue  and  nail  these  to  the  ends,  keeping  the  bottom 
edges  flush.  Set  all  nails  with  a  nail-set. 

One  edge  and  one  end  only  of  the  bottom  should  now  be  planed 
square,  the  other  edge  and  end  being  left  to  plane  after  the  bottom  is 
nailed  in  place.  Cut  a  piece  of  tin  1/16"  smaller  than  the  glass,  or 
glue  some  tinfoil  on  the  inside  of  the  bottom.  If  tinfoil  is  to  be  used, 
smooth  it  on  a  piece  of  paper  carefully  with  the  fingers;  then  spread 
some  glue  thinly  over  the  bottom,  and  lay  the  tinfoil  on  it.  The 
squared  edge  and  end  of  the  bottom  are  to  be  nailed  first,  having 
them  fit  nicely;  then  the  other  edge  and  end.  Never  drive  a  nail 
too  near  the  corner  of  the  bottom  lest  it  strike  the  nails  driven 
thru  the  sides  of  the  box.  Now  plane  the  end  and  then  the  side  of 
the  bottom  to  fit.  If  tin  is  used  instead  of  tinfoil  put  it  inside  the 
box  after  the  bottom  has  been  nailed  in  place.  Make  the  two  sup- 
ports fit  inside  the  box  lengthwise  and  just  wide  enough  to  hold  the 
top  of  the  glass  flush  with  the  top  edges  of  the  box.  To  hold  the  sup- 
ports, drive  nails  thru  the  ends  of  the  box  into  them. 

Everything  about  electrical  apparatus  should  be  clean  and  dry,  so, 
as  this  is  really  an  electric  box,  have  the  glass  and  tin  clean  before 
using  it.  Put  some  bits  of  charcoal,  paper,  straw,  or  sawdust  into 
the  box,  have  it  warm  and  dry,  rub  the  glass  with  a  piece  of  leather 
(glove,  shoe),  and  then,  see  how  the  little  people  jump!  The  ex- 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


39 


t- 

?S 


uj  co  o 


40  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

planation  is  as  follows:  Kubbing  glass  with  leather,  fur,  woolen,  or 
silk  generates  electricity;  this  electricity  attracts  non-electrified 
bodies,  thus  lifting  the  little  people  to  the  glass;  as  soon  as  they  be- 
come charged  with  the  electricity  on  the  glass,  they  are  repelled  and 
thrown  down  to  the  tin;  the  tin  conducts  their  charge  of  electricity 
away,  and  they  are  ready  to  begin  their  circus  over  again. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS.  41 

PENCIL-BOX—PLATE   10. 

To  make  this  box,  saw  out  one  long  piece  for  the  sides  and  ends, 
22"xl^"x}4",  or  two  shorter  pieces,  12"xl^"x>4".  The  reason  for 
having  them  so  long  is  because  it  is  difficult  to  make  the  groove  nicely 
to  the  end  of  the  board;  and  they  are  wide  enough  to  try  twice  to 
make  the  groove. 

File  a  nail  (about  3/32"  in  diameter)  sharp  like  a  chisel,  and 
drive  it  tightly  into  a  small  hole,  drilled  in  a  block  of  wood  which 


Fig.  3 

has  one  corner  rabbeted,  that  is,  sawed  away  as  shown  in  Fig.  3.  The 
outside  of  the  nail,  measured  from  the  shoulder  of  the  rabbet,  must 
be  exactly  %"  away,  so  that  the  lower  edge  of  the  groove  will  be 
34"  from  the  top  of  the  box.  Practice  with  this  tool  till  a  good  groove 
can  be  made  in  waste  lumber,  then  make  the  groove  along  one  edge 
of  the  board.  When  well  done,  plane  the  board  1^"  wide,  and  saw 
it  to  the  proper  lengths  for  sides  and  ends.  In  the  front  end  there 
is  no  groove,  so  plane  it  away  from  one  piece  just  sawed.  Sandpaper 
the  flat  sides  before  gluing  and  nailing  them  together.  Prepare  the 
bottom  as  directed  for  the  magic  box,  page  38,  then  sandpaper,  glue 
and  nail  it  in  place.  Set  all  nails.  Plane  the  bottom  to  fit.  Pre- 
pare the  cover  somewhat  too  long  but  exactly  the  width  between  the 
grooves.  As  in  making  the  whistle,  page  32,  so  here  draw  pencil 
lines  for  the  bevel  ^"  wide  on  the  cover.  Practice  planing  a  bevel 
on  waste  wood  first.  The  bevel  at  {he  further  end  of  the  cover  can  be 
planed  by  holding  the  cover  upright  in  the  vise.  When  it  slides 
smoothly  in  the  grooves,  saw  it  the  right  length.  For  the  notch,  make 
a  deep  cut  with  a  gouge,  and  cut  the  chip  straight  across  with  knife 
point  or  small  chisel.  Hold  it  in  the  bench-hook  while  doing  this. 


42  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

TELEPHONE— PLATE  11. 

In  these  days  when  even  boys  are  using  wireless  telegraphy,  this 
may  seem  a  humble  telephone,  but  it  is  a  surprisingly  good  one,  and 
it  is  very  easily  made  and  operated.  The  drum  should  be  hard  and 
tight,  the  string  should  be  a  small,  hard  cord  (tho  the  common  pink 
cord  thoroly  waxed  with  paraffin  will  do),  and  the  cord  should  be 
supported  by  nothing  but  the  drums  when  the  telephone  is  being  used. 

After  preparing  the  eight  sides,  observe  in  Plate  11,  the  method  of 
nailing  four  boards  of  equal  width  together  to  form  a  square, — each 
one  is  nailed  to  another  one.  The  ends  of  the  boxes  should  be  well 
rounded  with  sandpaper  before  the  drum  is  stretched  over  them. 

The  best  material  for  the  drum  is  rawhide, — the  dried  skin  of  an 
animal.  The  skin  of  a  small  animal  like  the  cat,  rabbit,  or  wood- 
chuck  is  best.  Country  boys  will  not  have  much  difficulty  in  secur- 
ing such  rawhide,  but  city  boys  may.  To  remove  the  hair,  or  fur, 
from  a  skin,  slack  a  lump  of  lime  as  large  as  a  hen's  egg  in  a  basin 
of  water  and  soak  the  skin  in  it  until  the  hair  can  be  pulled  off  read- 
ily (usually  a  few  minutes)  ;  then  thoroly  wash  the  skin,  stretch  it 
over  one  end  of  a  box,  and  tack  it  every  y%'  with  2  oz.  tacks.  When 
thoroly  dry  it  will  be  "tight  as  a  drum"  and  ready  to  use.  A  good 
drum  can  also  be  made  of  an  old  (dressed)  kid  glove  or  shoe.  Soak 
a  piece  4"  sq.  in  water  a  few  minutes  then  stretch  it  while  still  wet, 
tightly  over  the  box.  When  dry,  coat  it  on  both  sides  with  melted 
paraffin.  Fasten  the  cord  to  the  drum  simply  by  a  knot  on  the  in- 
side. If  common  pink  cord  is  used,  drive  the  paraffin  in  with  a  hot 
flat-iron. 

To  use  the  telephone,  a  boy  at  each  end  of  the  line  holds  his  box 
so  that  the  string  will  not  touch  anything,  then  one  talks  into  his 
box  while  the  other  listens  in  his.  The  telephone  may  be  stretched 
from  one  house  to  another  if  the  houses  are  within  several  hundred 
feet  of  each  other  and  have  a  free  space  between.  If  two  telephones 
were  provided,  a  person  could  talk  and  listen  at  the  same  time. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


43 


TELEPHONE: 


o'o      oooooo 

O 

\ 

°            RAWHIDE    OR    PARAFFINED     KID   -• 
O 

0 

-.1 
tf 

o 

LONG 

WIDE 

THICK 

8 

5IDES 

3a 

3 

i 

2. 

DRUMS 

4 

4 

1 

CORD 

100  TO  400  FT. 

44  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

HAPPY  JACK  WINDMILL.— PLATE  12. 

On  a  windy  day  "Happy  Jack"  will  be  a  whole  circus  out  on  the 
clothes-line  post.  If  he  can  be  painted  in  bright  colors  so  much  the 
better,  otherwise  he  should  be  decorated  with  colored  pencils. 

The  body  is  drawn  on  a  board,  9"x2"x>^",  by  measuring  all  the 
figures  from  the  hat  down,  and  at  these  points  drawing  lines  square 
across  the  board;  also,  draw  a  center-line  from  head  to  heel.  The 
toes  and  hat  rim  split  easily,  so  be  careful  of  these  parts.  If  no 
scroll-saw  is  at  hand,  saw  every  ^"  with  the  back-saw  straight  across 
from  the  edge  of  the  board  to  the  outline  of  the  body ;  then  pare  these 
little  pieces  away  with  a  knife  or  chisel.  The  curves  at  the  neck  are 
best  made  with  a  No.  6  bit  before  sawing.  The  curves  may  be  fin- 
ished with  half-round  file  or  sandpaper.  Take  great  care  in  boring 
the  hole  up  the  legs  and  across  the  shoulders;  if  a  hole  is  started 
crooked,  glue  in  a  dowel  of  the  same  wood  (see  Dowels,  page  11), 
let  it  dry,  and  then  try  again.  Use  a  straight-edge  as  a  guide,  as 
for  the  whistle,  page  32.  A  No.  3  bit  is  used  thru  the  shoulders, 
and  a  No.  4  bit  up  the  legs.  To  make  the  arms,  use  a  Y*"  hard  wood 
dowel  6"  long.  Bore  Y±"  holes  for  the  vanes  Y*"  ea°h  s^e  the  center 
of  the  dowel  and  file  the  wrists,  before  sawing  it  in  two.  Round  the 
ends  some  with  sandpaper.  Flatten  the  4"  wire  which  goes  thru  the 
shoulders  enough  to  keep  it  from  turning  in  the  arms.  Drill  holes 
in  the  arms  to  hold  the  wire  firmly.  To  plane  the  vanes  thin  at  the 
broad  end,  use  the  board  mentioned  at  the  bottom  of  page  19.  When 
gluing  and  nailing  the  vanes  in  the  arms,  remember  that  one  lies  flat 
and  the  other  nearly  edgewise;  also  remember  to  make  them  bal- 
ance. Bore  a  3/16"  hole  in  the  center  of  the  base  and  glue  the  dowel 
into  it.  Before  trying  to  fasten  "Happy  Jack"  to  a  post,  drill  holes 
in  the  base  for  nails  or  screws. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


45 


HAPPY   JACK    WINDMILL 


LONG 

WIDE 

THICK 

1     BODY 

9 

a 

a 

2    ARMS 

3 

^  OIAM. 

2    VANES 

8 

5 

4 

1     BASE 

3 

3 

i 

1     DOWEL 

5* 

j|  DtAM. 

1     WIRE 

4 

g    DMM 

. 


46  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

GLOUCESTER  "HAPPY  JACK"  WINDMILL— PLATE  13. 

This  "Happy  Jack'"'  is  the  kind  which  is  common  along  the  coast 
of  New  England.  He  is  often  painted  with  blue  and  white  uniform 
and  black  shoes,  while  the  paddles  are  left  unpainted. 

The  drawing  is  made  on  squares  so  that  it  may  be  enlarged  easily 
to  any  size.  Keep  the  same  number  of  squares  but  make  them  any 
size  desired;  %"  is  a  good  size.  The  hat,  being  made  separate  from 
the  body,  should  not  be  drawn  on  the  same  board. 

To  make  the  hat  without  a  lathe,  make  two  wheels  of  soft  wood, 
round  one  edge  of  the  larger,  and  glue  and  nail  the  smaller  one  on 
it.  Saw  the  head  slanting  to  make  a  flat  place  for  the  hat,  as  shown 
in  side  view  of  hat,  Plate  13.  The  space  between  the  legs  should  be 
cut  out  with  a  turning  or  key-hole  saw,  tho  it  can  be  worked  out  as 
the  diamond  in  the  sword  guard,  Plate  9.  The  "Happy  Jack"  should 
be  mounted  on  a  large  wire  rod. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


47 


GLOUCESTER 
HAPPY  JACK  WINDMILL 


SIDE  VIE\ 
or 

HAT 


lb 


-A- 


-STRIP     OF    TIN 
BETWICN     HEELS 


48  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

PADDLING  INDIAN  WINDMILL— PLATE  14. 

Make  this  windmill  any  dimension  desired,  using  the  same  num- 
ber of  squares  in  drawing  to  keep  the  proportions.  The  stern  of  the 
canoe  should  be  planed  thin  enough  so  that  the  completed  windmill 
will  nearly  or  quite  balance  on  the  upright  wire  rod.  The  arms 
should  be  made  like  those  on  the  "Happy  Jack,"  and  as  long  as  from 
the  center  of  the  shoulder  to  the  topmost  feather.  If  the  canoe  is 
not  too  wide,  the  Indian  can  be  nailed  in  place  by  two  nails  as  shown 
in  Plate  14,  otherwise  drive  smaller  ones  slanting  thru  the  back  into 
the  canoe;  drill  holes  in  either  case.  After  the  hole  is  bored  thru 
the  shoulders,  use  a  trysquare  to  tell  where  to  start  the  hole  up  thru 
the  canoe  so  that  it  shall  come  in  front  of  the  former. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


49 


a 

15 
a 
a 

2 


50  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


KITE— PLATE  15. 

Kite  flying  is  such  fascinating  sport  that  the  three  typical  kites 
here  given  will  make  one  want  to  build  others,  larger  and  of  differ- 
ent shapes.*  Kites  have  been  made  large  enough  to  carry  a  man  high 
in  the  air.  The  adjustments  of  a  kite  are  so  subtle  that  much 
patience  is  sometimes  needed  to  make  it  fly.  That  is  why  the  rather 
elaborate  bridle  is  suggested  for  the  paper  covered  kite  with  tail.  It 
will  require  a  little  longer  stay  in  the  workshop,  but  it  will  save  time 
outdoors. 

To  make  the  spine  and  crosspiece,  saw  a  y\"  strip  from  the  edge 
of  a  /^"straight-grained  spruce  board  3  ft.  long;  then  saw  this  strip 
again  lengthwise,  and  plane  the  two  pieces  3  ft.x3/4"v1/"  Mark  the 
center  of  the  crosspiece  and  a  point  8"  from  the  top  of  the  spine,  and 
plane  each  end  tapering  thinner  to  3/16".  In  each  end  saw  a  slot 
3/16"  deep,  Plate  15.  Glue  and  bind  securely  the  middle  of  the 
crosspiece  to  the  8"  point  on  the  spine.  Notice  that  the  last  few 
strands  go  around  the  others.  Test  the  sticks  to  see  that  they  are 
square  with  each  other.  This  can  be  done  by  measuring  from  one 
end  of  the  spine  to  each  end  of  the  crosspiece.  Put  a  cord  that  will 
not  stretch  around  the  ends  of  the  sticks,  in  the  slots,  and  tie  it 
tightly.  Bind  this  cord  into  each  slot  in  such  a  manner  that  it  will 
not  slip,  and  at  the  same  time  wind  the  sticks  so  that  they  will  not 
split  beyond  the  slot.  While  doing  this,  one  must  measure  again 
from  each  end  of  the  spine  to  the  ends  of  the  crosspiece  so  that  the 
two  halves  of  the  kite  will  be  equal. 

Cover  the  kite  with  strong,  light  paper.  Glue  the  paper  to  the 
sticks,  and  fold  it  over  the  string  l/2".  Try  to  have  the  string1  lay 
in  the  crease  of  the  fold.  Strengthen  the  corners  with  another  piece 
of  paper,  2"  wide. 

To  make  an  adjustable  bridle,  wind  a  cord  twice  around  the  spine 
near  its  top  and  tie  it  tightly  on  the  front  side,  keeping  the  knot  in 
the  middle.  Little  holes  will,  of  course,  have  to  be  made  in  the  paper. 

*Many  suggestions  are  found  in  "The  Construction  and  Flying  of 
Kites"  by  Charles  M.  Miller,  price  20  cents,  Manual  Arts  Press,  Peoria,  111. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


51 


52  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

Cut  the  cord  about  2"  long  and  tie  bowline-knot,  Fig.  2,  p.  34. 
Measure  on  the  crosspiece  10"  from  the  center,  and  down  the  spine 
12"  from  the  crosspiece,  and  tie  three  more  such  knots.  Double 
two  cords,  about  40"  long,  and  tie  them  in  one  big  knot,  called 
the  flying-knot,  to  make  a  loop  about  1"  long  to  which  to  fasten 
the  anchor  line.  Mark  a  point  on  the  spine  10"  below  the  cross- 
piece.  Hold  the  flying-knot  here,  and  fasten  two  cords  to  the  loop? 
on  the  crosspiece  with  two  or  three  half -hitches,  Plate  15.  Now 
bring  the  flying-knot  2"  above  the  crosspiece  and  out  from  the  kite 
far  enough  to  make  these  two  cords  taut.  Fasten  another  cord  to  the 
loop  at  the  upper  part  of  the  spine.  Adjust  the  remaining  cord  as 
taut  as  the  others. 

A  flat  kite  like  this  always  needs  a  tail,  and  the  most  bothersome 
tail  ever  made  is  that  familiar  kind  made  of  paper  and  string.  To 
make  a  convenient,  serviceable,  and  easily-made  tail  use  strips,  3" 
wide,  of  bunting,  cheese-cloth,  or  any  soft,  light  cloth. 

In  a  high  wind  a  longer  tail  is  needed  than  in  a  light  wind.  If 
the  kite  seems  too  unsteady,  pull  it  down,  and  try  to  adjust  the  bridle 
or  the  tail,  before  an  accident  occurs.  If  the  kite  dives,  let  go  the 
string  just  before  the  kite  reaches  the  ground  so  that  it  will  not 
strike  the  ground  with  force  enough  to  smash  the  kite.  When  let- 
ting out  string  rapidly,  always  protect  the  hand  with  a  cloth  or  glove 
lest  the  string  cut  thru  the  skin.  If  in  doubt  about  the  strength  of 
the  anchor-line,  two  boys  can  very  quickly  test  it  100  ft.  or  so  at  a 
time  as  it  is  being  let  out;  one  does  not  want  the  string  to  break 
when  the  kite  is  high  in  the  air. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


TAILLESS  KITE— PLATE  15. 

If  one  has  to  fly  a  kite  amid  many  obstructions  of  trees,  wires, 
and  houses,  one  will  appreciate  the  advantage  of  a  tailless  kite.  Such 
a  kite  has  to  be  more  accurately  made,  however,  and  should  be  cov- 
ered with  cloth. 

When  making  the  bow,  file  notches  near  the  slot  at  each  end 
in  the  same  manner  as  for  the  bow,  Plate  8,  in  which  the  twisting 
string  will  be  fastened  later.  Lash  the  middle  of  the  bow  to  a  point 
7"  from  the  top  of  the  spine.  In  the  slots,  put  the  cord  which 
goes  around  the  kite,  measuring  carefully  to  keep  the  two  sides  the 
same  size.  Sew  a  piece  of  colored  cambric  over  the  kite.  Tie  the 
middle  of  a  strong  cord  6^/2  feet  long  to  the  filed  notch  at  one  end 
of  the  bow  with  three  half-hitches,  as  shown  in  Plate  15.  Pass  one 
part  of  this  cord  around  the  other  notch,  and  fasten  it  in  the  same 
manner;  then  tie  the  two  ends  together  with  a  square  knot.  Make 
the  dowel  for  twisting  the  two  cords  on  the  back  of  the  bow  so  as 
to  bend  the  bow  as  desired.  Into  one  end  of  the  dowel  drive  a  small 
brad  and  file  it  sharp.  How  much  to  bend  the  bow  can  be  determined 
only  by  trying  the  kite.  As  the  bow  bends,  the  cloth  becomes  looser, 
and  it  is  this  looseness  of  the  cloth  which  so  holds  the  wind  that  the 
kite  will  fly  without  a  tail.  After  twisting  the  cords  enough,  slip 
them  towards  the  end  of  the  dowel  away  from  the  spur,  and  rest  the 
spur  in  the  back  of  the  spine. 

Tie  a  string  around  both  the  top  and  the  bottom  ends  of  the 
spine  for  the  bridle.  The  flying-knot  should  come  as  far  as  the  end 
of  the  bow;  or,  some  tie  the  lower  end  of  the  bridle  about  14"  from 
the  lower  end  of  the  spine,  and  make  the  flying-knot  about  9"  in 
front  and  2"  above  the  bow. 


54  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

BOX  KITE— PLATE  15. 

In  a  gale  too  strong  for  other  kites,  a  box  kite  will  fly  safely.  The 
bridle  is  very  easy  to  adjust,  and  the  kite,  tho  somewhat  more  elab- 
orate than  the  others,  is  not  difficult  to  make.  Thin  sticks  like  these 
can  be  sawed  from  the  edge  of  a  straight-grained  board.  An  easy 
way  to  make  the  notches  in  the  ends  of  the  braces  is  to  clamp  them 
all  in  the  vise  at  once,  flat  surfaces  together,  and  then  saw  them  out 
with  a  back-saw.  This  method  presupposes  that  the  uprights  are 
all  planed  the  same  thickness.  If  they  are  unequal  in  thickness,  saw 
the  notches  as  wide  as  the  thinnest  upright  and  pare  the  others  each 
to  fit  its  proper  upright.  In  any  construction  like  this,  which  has  a 
number  of  parts  fitting  together,  it  is  well  to  number  the  adjacent 
parts  so  that  they  may  be  put  together  again,  each  in  its  place.  Lit- 
tle nicks  are  cut  with  a  knife  on  the  four  edges  of  the  braces  where 
the  lashing  is  to  be  wound.  When  all  the  sticks  are  fitted  together, 
glue  the  braces  to  the  uprights  4jH$"  from  the  ends;  two  frames 
are  thus  made  just  alike.  The  lashing  is  done  with  large  thread. 
Start  it  with  two  turns  around  the  brace,  then  once  around  the  up- 
right, then  oncej  around  the  brace,  then  again  around  the  upright, 
and  so  continue.  The  last  few  turns  should  be  around  the  brace. 
See  that  the  thread  goes  from  the  brace  to  the  upright  in  the  way 
most  favorable  for  holding.  When  all  the  lashing  is  done,  measure 
the  center  of  each  brace.  Put  one  frame  thru  the  other,  and  drive  a 
pin  thru  the  two  centers.  Now  the  frames  must  be  brought  to  a 
14^"  square  by  means  of  strong  thread.  Near  the  top  of  one 
upright  tie  a  6  ft.  thread,  leaving  a  short  end.  Simply  wind  the1 
long  end  twice  around  each  upright,  and  tie  the  end  with  a  bow-knot 
until  all  sides  of  the  square  can  be  measured  and  adjusted.  When 
all  sides  are  equal,  make  the  bow-knot  into  a  square  knot.  Wind 
some  thread  around  each  upright,  except  the  first,  in  such  a  manner 
as  to  hold  the  long  thread  securely.  Now  adjust  the  other  end  of  the 
kite  in  the  same  way.  Measure  834"  from  the  ends  of  each  up- 
right and  put  other  threads  around  the  square.  These  can  be  fast- 
ened at  each  upright  after  the  first  by  three  half-hitches. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS.  55 

The  kite  may  be  covered  either  with  cloth  or  paper.  If  cloth  is 
used,  the  edges  should  be  hemmed.  If  paper,  lay  it  on  the  floor,  put 
glue  on  each  upright,  then  press  the  paper  to  one  upright.  Wrap  the 
paper  around  the  kite  and  wind  string  around  it  several  times  to  hold 
it  while  adjusting  and  pressing  each  corner.  Glue  the  ends  of  the 
paper  next,  pulling  them  as  tight  as  possible.  Two  flat-irons  will  hold 
the  ends  while  drying.  After  the  paper  is  on,  its  edges  should  be 
strengthened  with  a  narrow  ribbon  of  cloth  glued  to  it. 

Tie  the  bridle  strings  just  above  and  below  the  upper  cell  and 
have  the  flying-knot  5"  in  front  of  the  end  of  the  brace. 


56  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

KITE-STKING  SAILBOAT— PLATE  16. 

To  send  messages  up  to  his  kite,  many  a  boy  has  made  a  hole  in 
a  piece  of  paper  and  watched  that  go  sailing  up  his  anchor  line.  This 
sailboat  will  do  that,  and  other  things  too,  and  come  spinning  down 
again  to  take  another  message.  A  parachute,  made  of  a  paper  nap- 
kin, having  a  12"  thread  running  to  each  corner  and  a  nail  for 
ballast  tied  where  the  four  threads  are  knotted  together,  can  be  sent 
up  by  this  messenger,  released,  and  allowed  to  float  down  from  a 
great  height.  Paper  gliders  sent  up  this  way  will  do  many  "stunts" 
before  they  reach  ground.  Fold  a  flimsy  paper  napkin  in  such  a 
way  as  to  hold  a  bunch  of  confetti  with  a  pin  thru  only  three  or  four 
thicknesses  of  the  napkin.  This  can  be  tied  to  the  keel  and  the 
pin  withdrawn  by  the  release  and  fall  of  a  nail,  and,  behold,  a  shower 
of  confetti !  Be  sure  the  falling  nail  will  do  no  injury  where  it 
strikes. 

A  light,  frail  model  like  this  will  require  considerable  time  and 
patience  to  make  and  adjust  so  that  it  will  work.  Make  the  hull  and 
posts  from  a  stick  about  13"  long.  Bore  the  3/16"  holes  for  the 
mast  and  keel,  the  former  a  little  to  the  left  (port,  a  sailor  would 
say)  of  the  center  and  2^"  from  the  bow,  the  latter  in  the  cen- 
ter 2"  from  the  stern.  Make  the  wheels  of  the  ends  of  spools  by 
sawing  them  off  just  where  the  straight  portion  begins,  and  glue- 
ing them  together  on  a  hard  dowel.  Very  accurately  find  their  cen- 
ters and  drill  holes  for  1"  brads  which  form  their  axles.  Drive 
these  into  the  post  so  that  the  wheels  run  very  freely.  Do  not  nail 
the  posts  to  the  hull  till  the  wire  parts  have  been  put  in  place.  Make 
three  staples  of  pins  and  drive  them  in  the  bottom  of  the  hull  so  that 
a  fine  wire  will  just  slide  thru  them,  easily.  Three  are  used  so  that 
the  wire  will  always  be  held  straight.  Next  make  the  two  eyes  which 
hold  the  kite-string  under  the  wheels.  Coiled  around  once  and  a 
half,  the  coils  must  be  separated  enough  to  allow  the  string  to  slip 
between.  The  safety  of  the  model,  swinging  violently  high  in  the 
air,  depends  upon  these  eyes.  They  can  be  driven  thru  small,  tight 
holes  and  bent  on  the  under  side  tot  make  them  secure.  They  must 
be  just  high  enough  to  allow;  the  string  to  run  free.  The  forward 


MANUAL  TRAIXIXG  TOYS. 


KITL-STRING     SAILBOAT 


LON6 

WIDE 

THIC* 

1       HULL 

9 

g- 

2      POSTS 

3 

1       MAST 

ii 

J 

DIAM. 

2      BOOMS 

7 

*       " 

2     GAFFS 

5 

i        " 

1       KEEL 

10 

A   •• 

2.     WHETEL5 

1 

i    - 

58  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

one  is  elongated  because  the  kite-string  slants  upward  so  much. 
Bend  the  4"  wire  trigger  three  times  around  a  brad  driven  in  a 
piece  of  wood  for  convenience.  To  handle  wire  readily  for  such  work 
as'  this,  two  pliers  will  be  found  useful.  Saw  a  notch  in  the  bow 
just  wide  enough  for  this  coil.  Now  glue  and  nail  the  posts  in 
position. 

Make  the  mast,  all  the  spars,  in  fact,  smaller  at  the  outer  end. 
Eig  it  completely  before  gluing  the  mat  in  place.  Be  sure  that  the 
booms  will  swing  over  the  forward  wheel,  so  as  not  to  interfere  with 
its  easy  running.  The  sails  should  be  of  light  cloth.  The  booms 
and  the  gaffs  (see  Plate  30  for  names  of  parts)  must  swing  freely 
on  the  mast,  so  as  to  fold  together  when  the  trigger  is  released.  For 
the  main-sheets,  use  thread  tied  with  a  long  loop  to  slip  over  the 
fine  wire  part  of  the  trigger.  A  cork  1J4"  in  diameter,  slit  to  the 
center,  can  be  put  on  the  kite-string  far  enough  from  the  kite  to  be 
safe  from  any  entangling.  On  the  keel,  fasten  ballast  enough  (about 
1  oz.)  to  make  the  sailboat  ride  upright. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS.  59 

THE  HYGROSCOPE  OR  WEATHER  COTTAGE— PLATE  17. 

This  model  serves  to  indicate  the  humidity  (dampness)  of  the 
air.  It  consists  of  the  house,  turntable,  and  figures,  the  turntable 
being  suspended  on  a  violin  string.  The  violin  string  absorbs  moist- 
ure from  the  air  and  untwists,  thus  causing  the  man  to  come  out; 
when  the  air  become  dry  the  string  twists  tighter,  thus  causing  the 
woman  to  come  out.  The  model  should  be  placed  out  doors  but  not 
exposed  to  rain  or  sun. 

The  arches  of  the  doorways  may  be  made  with  a  big  bit  (IjMT) 
or  a  scroll  saw.  If  a  bit  is  used,  bore  a  hole  for  the  spur  first,  lest 
it  split  the  board.  While  boring  hold  the  board  vertically  in  the  vise. 
The  portion  cut  off  between  the  doorways  can  be  sawed  with  the  tip 
of  the  back-saw  if  the  board  is  laid  flat  on  the  bench-hook.  The 
slanting  lines  at  the  top,  also,  can  be  sawed  while  held  down  on  the 
bench-hook.  After  the  front,  back  and  sides  are  made,  nail  the  back 
to  the  sides,  but  screw  the  front.  When  this  is  done,  put  the 
house  in  the  vise  in  an  upright  position  and  plane  the  tops  of  the 
sides  slanting.  Notice  that  one  roof  is  wider  than  the  other.  Nail 
the  narrower  one  first,  with  the  grain  running  from  front  to  back. 
Do  not  drive  nails  into  the  front  but  nail  it  securely  at  the  back 
and  side.  Letting  the  plane  rest  on  the  other  side  of  the  house, 
plane  the  upper  edge  of  this  roof  slanting,  so  that  the  other  roof  will 
fit.  Nail  this  in  place;  set  all  nails;  and  plane  the  upper  edge  of 
this  roof  slanting,  letting  the  plane  rest  on  the  first  roof.  Two  brads 
may  now  be  driven  near  the  center  of  the  ridge-pole  to  hold  the  roofs 
together.  After  making  the  floor,  place  the  house  in  position  on  it 
(}4"  from  back,  }4"  from  ends)  and  draw  a  line  around  the  house. 
Remove  the  house;  drive  three  brads  straight  down  thru  the  floor; 
pull  them  out  and  start  them  from  the  under  side  in  the  same 
holes;  then  put  the  house  in  place  again  and  drive  the  brads  home. 
Put  in  more  brads  to  hold  the  house  securely. 

To  make  the  chimney,  saw  a  notch  3/16"  deep  in  the  end  of  a 
34"  square  stick.  If  it  fits  on  the  roof,  bore  a  5/16"  hole  thru 
its  center,  and  saw  the  chimney  off  Y^"  long.  Glue  it  ^"  from 
the  front  end  of  the  roof.  When  drv.  bore  the  hole  thru  the  roof. 


60  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

The  chimney  top  with  the  dowel  attached  to  it  below  is  made  to 
revolve  so  that  the  Hygroscope  may  be  adjusted.  To  make  the  chim- 
ney top,  bore  a.  %"  hole  into  the  end  of  a  y2"  dowel;  then  saw 
it  off  yj'  and  glue  in  the  upper  dowel.  Make  the  turntable  some- 
what round  at  each  end.  In  the  center  of  it,  glue  and  nail  the  lower 
dowel.  Next,  paint  the  house  if  desired.  The  violin  string  is  glued 
and  wedged  into  holes  in  the  upper  and)  lower  dowels  so  that  the 
turntable  will  swing  3/16"  above  the  floor. 

The  man  and  woman  may  be  made  of  cardboard,  wood,  clay,  chalk 
or  plaster  of  Paris ;  or  they  can  be  bought  at  a  toy  store.  Painted  in 
bright  colors  and  shellacked  or  varnished,  they  look  well.  They  can 
be  made  to  balance  on  the  turntable  by  adding  a  piece  of  lead.  Of 
course,  neither  they  nor  the  turntable  should  touch  any  part  of  the 
house  as  they  swing  around. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


62  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

ELECTROPHORUS— PLATE  18. 

The  electrophorus  consists  of  two  parts,  a  pan  filled  with  a  resin- 
ous mixture,  and  a  cover  which  has  been  completely  covered  with  tin- 
foil. Under  favorable  conditions,  a  spark  of  electricity  J^>"  long 
can  be  obtained  from  this  electrophorus.  The  favorable  condition? 
are  these:  The  air  should  be  dry;  both  parts  of  the  electrophorus 
should  be  warm,  dry,  and  clean ;  and  the  tinfoil  and  rosin  should  be 
perfectly  flat,  so  as  to  come  in  close  contact  with  each  other. 

Make  the  pan  and  its  sides  as  shown  in  Plate  18.  Glue  and  nail 
the  sides  in  place  and  round,  their  upper  edges  well  with  sandpaper. 
To  make  the  resinous  mixture,  melt  a  half  teacup  of  rosin  with  two 
teaspoons  of  turpentine  and  about  the  same  of  paraffin  in  a  rather 
deep  dish,  and  pour  the  mixture  into  the  pan.  As  all  these  materials 
are  inflammable,  perhaps  the  safest  place  to  melt  them  is  in  the  oven. 
After  the  pan  is  cold,  test  the  surface  of  the  rosin  to  see  that  it  is 
flat  every  way.  If  it  is  not  flat,  sandpaper  the  high  parts  slowly  with 
coarse  sandpaper. 

When  making  the  cover,  observe  the  directions  on  page  20,  then 
round  the  edge  to  a  good  half-circle.  Test  the  cover  also  to  see  that 
it  is  flat,  especially  on  its  under  side,  for  to  get  good  sparks,  the 
tinfoil  and  rosin  must  come  just  as  close  together  as  possible.  Cut 
two  circles  of  tinfoil  4^4"  in  diameter.  Smooth  them  carefully 
on  a  piece  of  paper,  spread  glue  thinly  on  the  cover,  lay  the  tinfoil 
on  the  glue,  and  smooth  it  with  the  fingers.  Press  the  edges  as  smooth 
as  possible  because  electricity  escapes  easily  from  sharp  corners.  Cover 
the  larger  open  spaces  with  bits  of  tinfoil.  Hard  rubber  (ebonite), 
being  a  non-conductor  of  electrity,  makes  the  best  handle.  A  piece 
of  an  old  rubber  comb  or  a  fountain  pen  can  be  used  for  this  purpose. 

To  get  a  spark  of  electricity,  rub  the  rosin  with  soft  leather, 
fur,  or  woolen ;  place  the  cover  on  it ;  touch  the  top  of  the  cover  with 
the  flnger  (to  remove  the  negative  electricity)  ;  lift  the  cover  by  the 
top  of  the  handle ;  bring  the  edge  of  the  cover  near  a  finger,  or  other 
conductor,  and  a  spark  will  fly  off  with  a  snap.  It  is  a  miniature 
flash  of  lightning.  Some  books  on  electricity  describe  many  other 
experiments  which  can  be  tried. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


63 


91 

rn 


64  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

WATERWHEEI^PLATE  19. 

This  waterwheel  is  designed  to  be  placed  in  at  flowing  stream.  A 
longer  trough  might  well  lead  the  water  into  this  one  so  as  to  get 
greater  speed. 

Make  the  trough  first,  being  careful  to  make  a  good  fit  where  the 
sides  nail  to  the  bottom.  Nail  the  top  5"  from  the  end  where  the 
wheel  is  placed.  The  upper  corners  of  the  axle  blocks  are  to  be  cut 
off  1".  The  center  of  the  5/16"  hole  for  the  axle  is  %"  from 
the  lower  edge.  When  nailing  the  axle  blocks  in  place,  put  a  dowel 
or  lead  pencil  thru  the  holes  to  help  in  nailing  the  Blocks  exactly  op- 
posite each  other. 

After  sawing  a  board  for  the  wheel  4%"  square,  draw  the  diagon- 
als and  diameters  (cornerwise  and  crosswise,  that  means)  to  di- 
vide it  into  eight  parts.  Draw  a  4"  circle  for  the  wheel  and  a 
3%"  circle  to  mark  the  depth  of  the  notches  for  the  paddles.  Shape 
the  wheel.  (See  page  20  for  directions.)  Test  it  with  the  try- 
square  to  keep  the  edge  square  with  the  flat  surface.  Bore  a  %" 
"hole  in  the  center  with  the  greatest  care,  or  the  wheel  will  wobble 
sidewise.  The  notches  are  cut  with  the  back-saw  alone.  One-eighth 
of  an  inch  to  one  side  of  the  eight  lines  across  the  circle,  saw  straight 
down  to  the  inner  circle.  Be  careful  to  hold  the  saw  square  with  the 
wheel.  After  this  saw  cut  is  made,  measure  the  width  of  the  notch 
by  holding  the  edges  of  a  paddle  so  as  just  to  cover  the  saw  cut,  and, 
with  a  knife  point  make  a  dot  at  the  other  side  of  the  paddle.  Hold- 
ing the  trysquare  against  one  side  of  the  wheel  and  the  inner  edge  of 
its  blade  over  the  dot,  score  a  knife  line  across  the  edge  of  the  wheel. 
Then  saw  straight  down  again  inside  this  knife  line.  Saw  cornerwise 
a  few  times  and  the  wood  will  be  removed  sufficiently.  The  notches 
may  better  be  too  small  than  too  large,  for  the  paddles  can  be  planed 
thinner  to  fit.  Clean  the  wheel  with  the  plane  before  nailing  the  pad- 
dles. All  these  paddles  except  one  can  be  nailed  with  the  wheel  held 
in  a  corner  of  the  vise.  To  nail  that  one,  put  a  thin  board  upright 
in  the  vise  and  rest  the  wheel  on  its  top.  All  nails  should  be  started 
in  the  paddles,  not  in  the  wheel. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


65 


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66  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

Make  the  axle  of  hard  wood.  Push  it  thru  the  axle  blocks  and 
wheel,  and  lock  it  to  the  wheel  with  a  brad,  Plate  19.  The  axle  is 
made  long  so  that  a  pulley  (spool)  can  be  put  on  and  a  belt  (string) 
run  from  this  to  other  pulleys.  A  leather  washer  outside  each  axle 
block  keeps  the  wheel  in  the  center.  If  the  work  has  been  carefully 
done,  the  paddles  will  not  strike;  if  they  do  strike,  they  must  be 
pared  off. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS.  67 

WATEE  MOTOR— PLATE  20. 

This  motor  is  a  waterwheel  designed  for  an  ordinary  hose  faucet. 
Under  a  stream  of  water  no  bigger  than  a  large  needle,  it  will  fairly 
buzz.  If  the  wheel  does  not  run  exactly  true  on  the  axle,  the  motor 
will  need  legs  screwed  on  the  outside  of  the  box. 

Make  the  wheel  of  soft  wood  just  as  true  as  possible.  (See  page 
20.)  For  the  axle  a  small  brass  rod  or  a  large  knitting  needle  may 
be  used.  In  the  center  of  the  wheel,  drill  a  hole  smaller  than  the 
axle  so  as  to  make  a  tight  fit.  Be  very  careful  to  bore  this  hole 
straight.  Force  the  axle  thru  the  wheel,  and  if  the  wheel  wobbles 
only  slightly  drive  wooden  wedges  beside  the  axle  to  force  it  square 
with  the  wheel.  If  it  wobbles  too  much,  plug  the  hole  and  try  boring 
again.  Eesting  the  axle  on  the  jaws  of  the  vise,  revolve  the  wheel 
rapidly  to  see  where  it  is  out  of  true,  and  patiently  pare  it  down. 
The  flat  side  of  the  wheel  which  wobbles  only  a  little  can  be  planed 
off.  The  strip  of  screen  wire  netting  should  now  be  tacked  on  the 
wheel.  It  is  long  enough  to  go  twice  around  the  wheel,  and  should 
be  tacked  on  with  a  dozen  small  tacks. 

For  suggestions  about  the  pulley  see  page  56. 

Prepare  a  block  of  soft  wood  for  the  coupling.  From  its  bottom, 
gage  a  line  marking  the  height  of  the  dovetails  in  whic^h  the  blocks  C 
and  D  fit  JHs"  on  each  side.  Saw  these  dovetails  3/16"  deep, 
and  pare  them  slanting  with  a  chisel.  In  the  center  of  the  top,  bore 
a  1"  hole,  y4"  deep;  continue  the  hole  thru  the  block  with  a 
y2"  bit.  Bore  holes  ft"  from  the  top,  y2"  from  the  ends  for  the 
two  ll/2"  screws  which  are  shown  in  the  small  drawing,  Plate  20. 
Gage  and  saw  out  the  left-hand  half  of  the  block  (as  shown  in  the 
plate)  as  deep  as  the  1"  hole.  The  purpose  of  this  is  to  permit  a 
squeezing  fit  on  the  threads  of  the  faucet.  When  first  trying  it  on 
the  faucet,  squeeze  it  hard  with  a  hand-screw  to  jamb  the  threads 
into  the  wood ;  after  that,  the  screws  can  be  put  in  and  the  coupling 
attached  at  pleasure.  A  y\"  hole  is  bored  in  the  ^2"  dowel,  which 
serves  as  a  nozzle,  until  the  spur  just  shows.  Without  allowing  the 
bit  to  bore  any  farther,  turn  it  around  enough  so  that  the  spur  will 
wear  the  wood  and  thus  make  a  tapering  hole  as  shown  in  the  sec- 
tional drawings. 


68  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

Prepare  the  sides,  ends,  and  top  of  the  box,  the  three  blocks,  the 
key  wedge,  and  the  two  stops.  The  wedge  should  be  1/16"  wider 
at  one  end  than  the  other  and  should  fit  the  dovetail.  Block  C 
should  fit  the  other.  In  the  top  piece,  bore  a  ^4"  hole  in  the  mid- 
dle 1}4"  from  the  end.  This  hole  is  larger  than  the  nozzle  to  al- 
low for  adjustments.  All  these  parts  must  now  be  thoroly  soaked 
with  paraffin.  Melt  the  paraffin,  apply  it  with  a  brush  to  all  sur- 
faces, and  drive  it  in  with  heat.  During  the  process,  the  nozzle  can 
be  made  fast  in  the  coupling,  using  plenty  of  paraffin  to  make  it 
water  tight.  See  that  the  tiny  outlet  occupies  the  best  position  for 
directing  the  water  onto  the  wheel.  After  the  nozzle  is  cold  again, 
the  outlet  should  be  carefully  worked  out  again  with  the  warm  point 
of  a  big  hat-pin  or  wire,  filed  to  a  good  point. 

Put  the  parts  together  as  follows :  Nail  one  side  (the  right  in 
the  plate)  to  the  ends;  screw  the  other  side  to  ends;  nail  top  to  ends 
and  first  side  only ;  nail  block  B  to  A ;  then  A  to  the  top.  Unscrew  the 
side  and  bore  holes  in  the  center  of  the  sides  for  the  axle.  Make 
them  fit  nicely,  then  soak  them  with  paraffin.  Put  the  wheel,  the 
side,  the  pulley,  and  the  stops  in  place.  Put  the  coupling  in  such 
position  that  the  nozzle  comes  over  the  rim,  of  the  wheel  and  nail 
block  C.  After  putting  two  or  three  soft  leather  washers  in  the 
coupling  screw*  it  to  the  faucet,  lock  it  to  the  motor,  and  the  motor 
is  ready. 

Better  bearings  for  the  axle  can  be  made  of  two  pieces  of  solder 
screwed  to  the  inside  of  the  sides.  If  these  are  made,  the  holes  in 
the  sides  should  be  large  enough  not  to  touch  the  axle.  The  wheel 
and  pulley  can  be  locked  to  a  brass  axle  by  boring  a  hole  thru  the 
axle  with  a  drill  made  of  a  needle.  (See  Drills,  page  11.) 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


69 


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MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


SAND  WHEEL— PLATE  21. 

Fine  sand  will  make  a  wheel  like  this  spin  around  lively.  Most 
of  the  parts  are  easily  made,  the  wheel  offering  the  most  difficulties. 

As  shown  in  the  drawing  it  consists  of  two  boxes,  uprights  con- 
necting the  two,  and  a  wheel  with  paddles  swung  on  an  axle  be- 
tween the  uprights. 

To  make  the  curves  on  the  uprights,  lay  them  edge  to  edge  in 
the  vise  and  start  the  spur  of  a  large  bit  in  the  crack,  1^"  from 
each  end.  If  a  big  spool  cannot  be  obtained  for  the  wheel,  plane  out 
an  octagonal  block  1^"  long,  1"  in  diameter.  The  slanting  part  of 
the  spool  must  be  whittled  away.  Divide  one  end  into  eight  equal 
parts  and  drawn  lines  lengthwise  the  spool  at  each  division.  On 


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these  lines,  measure  very  carefully  11/16"  from  one  end.  Then, 
holding  the,  spool  level  in  the  vise  bore  3/16"  holes  half  thru  the 
spool  at  each  of  these  dots.  The  easiest  way  to  lay  out  the  paddles 
is  in  one  long  piece  as  shown  in  Fig.  4.  If  lines  A  and  B  are  sawed 
carefully  (see  page  12)  they  will  fit  the  spool  well  enough  to 
glue.  The  stems  of  the  paddles  go  into  the  holes  bored  in  the  spool. 
They  are  easily  made  round  by  paring  the  corners  a  little,  and  then 
screwing  them  aroimd  in  a  3/16"  hole  in  a  piece  of  hard  wood. 
The  ends  of  the  paddles  where  the  sand  strikes  are  bevelled  on  the 
under  side.  The  holes  in  the  uprights,  thru  which  1J4"  brads  are 
pushed  into  the  center  of  the  spool,  must  be  exactly  opposite  each 
other,  3%"  from  the  bottom.  Little  leather  washers  should  be 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


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72  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

put  between  the  spool  and  the  uprights.  Now  make  the  boxes.  To 
nail  the  boxes  to  the  upright  follow  the  suggestions  on  page  59  for 
nailing  the  floor  of  the  weather  cottage.  Keep  the  brads  near  the 
center  of  the  uprights  lest  they  split  the  curves.  A  5/16"  hole  for 
the  sand  is  bored  in  the  upper  box  in  such  a  position  that  the  sand 
will  strike  near  the  middle  of  the  ends  of  the  paddles.  The  peg  is 
tapered  to  fit  this  hole. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


73 


RUNNING  WHEEL— PLATE  22. 

It  is  fine  fun  for  several  boys  to  race  down  the  street  with  run- 
ning wheels.  Each  boy  can  have  a  different  kind  of  wheel  by  fol- 
lowing the  suggestions  on  Plate  22. 

The  wheel  may  be  made  any  convenient  size.  Saw  a  board  off 
square  and  plane  it  flat.  To  be  sure  that  it  is  flat,  it  must  be  tested 
with  a  straight-edge  from  corner  to  corner,  crosswise,  and  lengthwise. 
Draw  the  circle  with  a  string  pinned  to  the  center,  if  a  large  com- 


\ 


pass  is  not  at  hand.  Saw  it  with  a  turning  saw  and  finish  it  as  sug- 
gested on  page  20.  Bore  and  countersink  a  hole  in  the  center  for 
a  \y2"  flat-head  screw.  Make  the  handle  and  drill  a  small  hole 
in  it  where  the  wheel  is  to  be  screwed  on.  Round  off  the  upper  end 
and  edges  of  the  handle  so  that  it  feels  good  to  the  hand  grasping  it. 
The  screws  used  in  the  connecting  rod  should  slip  easily  thru  the 
holes  at  each  end.  Altho  one  arm  will  do,  two  look  better.  To  draw 
the  boy,  draw  as  many  Y^'  squares  on  the  board  as  there  are  in 
Fig.  5,  then  sketch  the  outline  one  square  at  a  time.  To  cut  it  out, 


74  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

a  scroll-saw  or  turning-saw  is  almost  surely  needed,  tho  a  patient 
boy  can  do  it  with  auger-bits,  back-saw,  knife,  and  file — the  bits  to 
be  used  first  at  all  the  inside  angles.  On  the  handle,  must  be  put  a 
block  on  which  to  screw  the  boy.  To  fasten  the  two  arms  loosely  at 
the  shoulders,  the  screw  should  be  loose  in  the  shoulder  and  first  arm, 
and  tight  in  the  second  arm.  The  same  is  true  of  the  hands  and 
flagpole.  In  the  top  of  the  flagpole,  bore  a  hole  to  fit  a  small  flag. 
Paint  of  bright  colors  makes  the  model  look  much  more  pleasing. 

An  easy  way  to  make  the  sliding  part  of  the  lower  right-hand 
running  wheel,  Plate  22,  is  to  cut  out  with  bit  and  chisel  a  narrow 
slot  thru  the  handle,  wide  enough  for  two  screws,  with  washers  on 
them,  which  screw  into  the  block  holding  the  flag. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


75 


76  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

EATTLE— PLATE  23. 

This  is  a  noisy  toy  and  will  make  a  safe  substitute  for  fire-crack- 
ers on  the  Fourth  of  July.  Some  of  the  dimensions  may  be  changed 
to  suit  such  a  spool  as  can  be  obtained.  It  should  be  a  rather  deep 
spool,  that  is,  one  that  held  a  lot  of  thread. 

The  noise  is  made  by  the  spring  snapping  off  the  slats  in  the  spool 
as  the  head  of  the  rattle  is  swung  round  and  round.  Draw  lines 
across  one  end  of  the  spool  to  divide  it  into  eight  equal  parts.  Place 
the  spool  endwise  in  the  vise  and,  with  the  back-saw,  cut  eight  notches 
a  little  more  than  1/16"  wide  straight  towards  the  opposite  side  of 
the  spool.  By  sawing  twice  at  each  notch,  the  wood  which  remains 
can  easily  be  removed  with  the  saw  held  slanting.  There  are  several 
ways  of  making  the  eight  little  slats  which  fit  into  these  notches: 
the  easiest,  perhaps,  is  to  split  them  from  a  block  (l^"xl^2"x- 
5/16")  of  a  straight-grained  wood,  and  plane  them  on  the  jig  de- 
scribed at  the  foot  of  page  19.  Glue  them  in  the  notches.  Plane 
the  back  and  the  spring  this  same  way.  Square  both  ends  of  the  back 
but  do  not  plane  it  quite  to  width  until  it  is  glued  and  nailed  in 
place.  In  the  two  sides,  bore  a  5/16"  hole  for  the  dowel,  1/4"  from 
the  end  and  a  little  over  24"  from  the  back  edge.  (Holes  are  al- 
ways located  by  their  centers.)  This  dowel  must  fit  tightly  in  the 
handlet  and  spool,  and  loosely  in  the  two  sides.  Plane  the  spring 
thinner  at  the  narrow  end.  It  should  be  narrow  enough  and  its  cor- 
ners cut  off  enough  so  as  not  to  touch  the  spool  when  if  snaps.  The 
handle  might  well  be  octagonal  rather  than  round. 

The!  parts  may  now  be  put  together  as  follows:  Glue  and  nail 
the  sides  first  to  the  thick  end,  second  to  the  thin  end.  The  dis- 
tance between  the  ends  inside  is  3  5/16".  Keep  these  four  parts  flush 
on  the  back  edges  so  that  the  back  will  fit.  Glue  and  nail  the  back. 
Glue  the  dowel  in  the  handle.  Put  glue  inside  the  spool  and  on 
the  middle  portion  of  the  dowel,  then,  with  the  spool  between  the 
two  sides,  push  the  dowel  thru  all  three  holes.  Glue  and  nail  the 
spring  in  place.  It  should  be  as  far  towards  the  spool  as  it  will  go 
without  snapping  the  next  slat  when  it  snaps  off  one  slat. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


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78  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

CART— PLATE  24. 

The  important  features  of  a  cart  are  the  wheels  and  axle  and  the 
tongue;  if  these  are  strong  and  the  tongue  securely  fastened,  almost 
any  box  will  do  for  the  body.  Two  tongues,  nailed  or  screwed  to 
the  sides  of  the  body,  probably  make  the  strongest  handle,  but  they 
are  not  so  good  looking  as  the  one  shown  in  Plate  24.  If  this  one 
is  screwed  to  the  box  with  six  1"  screws,  two  in  the  tongue  and 
two  in  each  block,  it  will  be  strong  enough.  Some  of  the  nicer  boxes 
to  be  secured  of  a  grocer  will  do  for  a  body,  tho  it  is  better  to  make 
one  one's  self. 

Four  wheels  of  ^"  hard  wood  should  be  made  (see  page  20)  and 
then  each  two  of  the  four  glued)  and  nailed  together  very  securely 
with  the  grain  crosswise.  For  this  purpose,  1%"  clout,  or  clinch 
nails  are  best.  Do  not  drive  them  too  near  the  center  nor  the  rim. 
To  clinch  nails,  they  should  be  driven  onto  a  piece  of  iron.  After 
this  is  done,  a  y%"  hole  (or  larger  if  you  can  get  a  larger  stick 
for  the  axle)  is  bored  straight  thru  the  center.  To  cut  the  cylindrical 
ends  of  the  axle,  first  draw  a  %"  Circle  at  the  center  of  each  end, 
then  lay  out  and  saw  out  two  rectangular  pieces,  one  on  each  side  of 
the  circles  so  as  to  leave  a  %"  square  pin,  2^4"  long.  Proceed 
to  make  these  pins ;  first,  eight  sided ;  then,  sixteen  sided ;  then, 
round:  using  knife  or  chisel  and  a  coarse  flat  file.  Make  the  hole 
in  the  washers  before  cutting  off  each  corner  9/16".  These  wash- 
ers are  to  be  fastened  to  the  axle  when  held  rather  snugly  against  the 
wheel  with  two  1"  screws  put  crosswise  the  grain.  Before  putting 
the  wheels  on  the  last  time,  rub  the  axles  and  holes  well  with  hard 
soap  to  make  them  run  easier.  Draw  a  line  across  the  bottom  of  the 
body  5"  from  the  back  end,  and  bore  four  screw  holes  thru  the  bot- 
tom; countersink!  them  well  on  the  inside  of  the  body,  and  put  1" 
screws  thru  into  the  flat  side  of  the  axle.  The  axle  is  planned  so  that 
the  wheels  run  within  y%'  of  the  body. 

With  a  curved  lower  edge,  the  tongue  is  2*/^"  wide  at  one  end 
and  1^2"  at  the  other.  To  get  the  correct  slant  at  the  wide  end, 
block  up  the  cart  level,  have  some  one  (or  the  vise)  hold  the  tongue 
in  the  position  wanted  when  finished,  then  with  a  strip  of  wood 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


79 


80  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

about  2"  wide  placed  upright  against  the  front  of  the  body,  draw  a 
line  on  the  tongue.  From  the  lowest  corner  of  the  tongue,  draw  an- 
other line  parallel  to  the  first,  and  saw  off.  After  making  the  two 
blocks  and  fastening  them  securely  to  the  tongue,  saw  the  lower  ends 
flush  with,  the  curve  of  the  tongue.  Place  the  tongue  in  position, 
draw  a  line  around  it  on  the  body,  then  bore  holes  where  screws  will 
go  best  into  the  tongue  and  blocks.  Six  1"  screws  well  countersunk 
will  hold  the  tongue  securely.  Since  the  tongue  is  fastened  to  the 
front,  the  sides  and  bottom  must!  be  well  nailed  to  it;  or,  the  corners 
may  be  strengthened  with  a  piece  of  tin  inside  and  outside  each  cor- 
ner, tacked  or  riveted  together.  Each  piece  of  tin  should  be  about 
3"  square. 

A  piece  of  old  bicycle  frame  forced  tightly  into  the  hole  of  a 
wheel,  makes  it  very  durable.  Such  a  hole  would  doubtless  have  to 
be  bored  with  an  expansive  bit.  A  bicycle  frame  is  easily  filed  in  two 
at  some  distance  from  the  reinforced  joints.  Such  a  piece  should  be 
longer  than  the  thickness  of  the  wheel  to  allow  filing  it  flush  after  it 
is  driven  in.  To  force  it  in,  use  a  strong  vise,  or,  after  protecting  it 
with  hard  wood,  drive  it  slowly  with  a  heavy  hammer. 

Small  carts  can  be  made  with  wheels  made  of  spools  like  those 
of  the  cannon.  (See  Plate  25.) 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS.  81 

CANNON— PLATE  25. 

This  cannon  will  shoot  small  marbles  very  well.  The  force  of  it 
depends,  of  course,  on  the  strength  of  the  rubber  bands.  Because  the 
ramrod  and  handle  are  rather  heavy,  a  strong  dowel  is  put  thru  the 
handle  and  ramrod.  The  rubber  washer  absorbs  some  of  the  shock. 

For  the  barrel  draw  a  1J4"  circle  on  one  end  of  a  stick  6^"x 
l^"xl^".  From  the  center  of  this  circle,  bore  a  9/16"  hole  straight 
thru  the  stick  endwise,  stopping  as  soon  as  the  spur  comes  thru.  Set 
the  needle  of  the  compass  in  this  spur  hole  and  draw  a  1"  circle  and, 
if  possible,  a  1%"  circle;  then  finish  boring. 

Plane  the  stick  round  to  the  1^4"  circle.  To  hold  the  stick 
while  doing  this,  put  a  rod  thru  the  hole,  open  the  vise  6^/2"  and 
let  the  ban-el  rest  endwise  in  the  vise.  Two  and  one-half  inches  from 
the  breech  end  of  the  barrel,  draw  a  line  around  it  to  limit  the  taper 
of  the  muzzle  end.  Plane  the  muzzle  to  the  1"  circle.  Two  inches 
from  the  breech,  bore  a  y%'  hole  straight  thru  the  barrel;  and  into 
this  hole  glue  the  axle.  After  the  glue  is  dry,  bore  out  the  barrel 
again,  and  sandpaper  the  hole  well. 

Make  the  ramrod  fit  loosely  in  the  barrel.  (See  directions  for 
Dart,  page  16.)  Make  the  handle  in  the  same  manner  as  the  bar- 
rel was  made,  except  that,  after  drawing  the  1%"  circle  at  the 
end  where  the  spur  just  appears,  the  hole  is  not  bored  further.  Glue 
the  ramrod  in  place,  and  fasten  it  with  the  tyi"  dowel.  The  curved 
notch  into  which  the  rubber  bands  are  tied,  can  be  worked  out 
patiently  with  a  round  file,  first  cutting  a  V-shaped  notch  with  a 
knife.  Pare  the  corners  and  sandpaper  all  parts  well. 

The  rubber  washer  can  be  made  of  an  old  rubber  heel.  To  bore 
a  hole  in  it,  squeeze  it  between  two  boards  and  bore  thru  both  to- 
gether. 

At  least  one  of  the  uprights  must  be  screwed  to  the  base.  The 
first  one  may  be  nailed.  Glue  and  nail  this  one  %"  from  the 
edge  of  the  base.  Hold  the  other  in  place  and  draw  a  line  around  it. 
Bore  holes  for  the  screws,  put  the  screws  in  the  holes,  and  press  the 
upright  on  them  to  mark  where  to  bore  in  the  upright.  After  boring 
in  the  uprights,  put  the  cannon  and  upright  in  place,  and  tighten  the 
screws.  The  wheels  can  be  made  of  the  ends  of  large  spools,  well 
counter-sunk  for  a  short,  large  screw. 


82 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


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MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


83 


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84  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

AUTOMOBILE— PLATE  26. 

Tho  the  motor  (an  elastic  band)  which  makes  this  automobile  go 
is  a  short-winded  affair,  still,  if  the  wheels  are  easy  running,  it  will 
go  alone  for  a  short  distance  on  a  wooden  floor.  A  stronger  elastic 
can  be  used  if  the  automobile  carries  a  load.  If  the  parts  are  painted 
with  bright  colors  before  they  are  entirely  put  together,  the  automo- 
bile will  look  very  well. 

First,  make  the  body,  then  4^4"  from  the  front  end  and  ?4" 
from  the  right  side,  bore  a  1/4"  hole  in  the  body  for  the  steer- 
ing post.  This  should  fit  tightly  so  as  to  hold  the  wheels  in  any 
position  desired.  Leather  washers  are  nailed  to  the  post  close  to  the 
body.  The  steering  post  must  be  put  in  place  before  any  other  parts 
are  fastened  to  the  body. 

The  ends  of  the  rails  which  are  later  fastened  to  the  bottom  of 
the  body,  slant  y2".  The  center  of  the  holes  for  the  axles  is  34" 
beyond  this  slanting  line  and  %"  above  the  lower  edge  of  the 
rails.  When  boring  these  %"  holes,  the  rails  should  be  clamped  to- 
gether so  that  the  holes  will  be  exactly  opposite  each  other.  The 
forward  holes  are  made  long  to  allow  the  axles  to  swing  back  and 
forth.  To  make  this  hole,  two  y^"  holes  are  bored  side  by  side  and 
the  top  and  bottom  smoothed  with  a  %"  chisel.  When  nailing 
the  body  to  the  rails,  put  the  rear  axle  thru  the  holes  to  aid  in  keep- 
ing them  opposite  each  other. 

The  forward  axle  is  made  in  one  piece  and  kept  so  until  after  the 
steering  "rope"  is  in  place.  The  axle  must  be  held  carefully  in  place 
while  the  brad  holes  are  bored  ^"  from  the  outer  edge  of  the  rails 
and  straight  thru  the  center  of  the;  axle.  A  tight  fitting  brad  is 
driven  into  this  hole.  The  steering  rope  must  not  stretch;  large, 
hard  thread  is  suitable.  Wind  a  piece  about  18"  long  tightly 
around  the  axle  about  y\"  from  one  rail  and  tie  it.  Pass  one  end 
thru  the  small  screw-eyes  shown  in  the  lower  drawing,  and  wind  it 
around  the  axle  near  the  other  rail  leaving  no  slack  in  the  screw- 
eyes  ;  then  wind  six  to  eight  turns  smoothly  around  the  steering  post, 
and  fasten  the  end  to  the  beginning  with  several  half-hitches.  (See 
Plate  15.)  A  separate  thread  should  be  tied  around  the  axle  and 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS.  85 

steering  rope  at  the  second  place.  Should  there  be  any  slack,  it  can 
be  taken  up  by  laying  a  V-shaped  thread  over  the  steering  rope  near 
the  axle  and  passing  the  two  ends  over  the  upper  side  of  the  axle, 
and  tying  them  across  the  steering  rope  on  the  other  side  of  the  axle. 
This  tends  to  pull  the  steering  rope  together  on  top  of  the  axle. 

The  wheels  can  be  sawed  from  short  lengths  of  curtain  poles,  ob- 
tained at  a  furniture  store.  The  %"  holes  for  the  axle,  must  be 
bored  exactly  at  the  center.  The  wheels  must  turn  freely  on  the 
front  axle,  but  be  glued  to  the  rear  axle,  which  must  itself  turn  freely 
in  the  rails.  After  the  wheels  are  in  place,  the  front  axle  can  be 
sawed  in  two  with  a  back-saw,  using  very  short  strokes,  and  sawing 
two  cuts  nearly  thru  before  either  is  sawed  completely. 

Nail  the  wind-shield  to  the  engine,  then  glue  both  to  the  body. 
Nail  the  seat-back  to  the  seat  so  that  the  top  of  the  seat  will  be 
24"  above  the  body,  then  nail  the  two  sides  to  the  end  and  to  the 
seat-back  and  seat.  Glue  the  whole  to  the  body.  Nails  can  be  driven 
up  thru  the  body  into  the  engine,  the  seat  back,  and  the  end,  if  care 
is  used  in  locating  them. 

One,  end  of  the  elastic  band  (motor)  is  tied  with  a  bit  of  string 
to  a  brad  driven  in  the  forward  end  of  the  body  of  the  automobile. 
On  the  other  end  of  the  elastic  band  ;is  tied  a  piece  of  string  about 
8"  long.  This  is  put  just  under  the  body  and  above  the  steering 
rope  and  wound  two  or  three  times  tightly  around  the  rear  axle 
and  tied.  The  string  and  elastic  band  should  be  simply  straight,  the 
elastic  neither  stretched  nor  loose.  To  wind  up  the  motor,  move  the 
automobile  backwards  on  the  floor  and  hold  the  rear  wheels  until 
ready  to  let  the  automobile  go. 


86  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

BOW  PISTOIj-PLATE  27. 

For  target  shooting  in  the  house,  this  is  a  fine  toy.  With  nicely 
made  arrows  and  a  good  bow,  it  will  shoot  very  well. 

Make  a  good  bow  of  rattan,  or  other  tough  wood.  An  old  spoke 
of  a  carriage  wheel  could  doubtless  be  obtained  of  a  blacksmith  or 
Avheelwright,  and  such  a  hickory  spoke  would  make  a  good  bow. 
Make  the  bow  much  like  that  shown  on  Plate  8, 
except  that  it  should  be  round  at  the  center  to 
fit  the  y%"  hole  in  the  pistol.  The  bow-string 
should  be  a  hard  cord  so  that  it  will  slip  easily 
from  the  notches  in  the  barrel  when  the  trigger 
is  pulled. 

Before  shaping  the  pistol,  make  the  groove 
in  the  center  of  one  edge  of  the  board.     This  Flg~  6 

should  be  made  with  a  ^"  round  plane.  It  can  be  made,  however, 
with  the  tool  shown  in  Fig.  6,  a  gouge,  and  a  round  file.  This  tool  is 
much  like  the  one  described  on  page  41  tho  a  larger  nail  is  used. 
Make  the  groove  7/32"  deep; gage  a  line  3/16" from  each  side  of  the 
board ;  then  use  the  gouge  inside  these  lines  and  as  deep  as  the  groove. 
When  the  gouging  is  well  done,  smooth  the  groove  with  a  round  file 
or  coarse  sandpaper  wrapped  around  a  pencil. 

Draw  and  shape  the  pistol.  Make  the  lower  edge  of  the  barrel 
half  round.  Sandpaper  it  well.  Make  the  trigger  of  hard  wood  and 
screw  it  on  the  pistol.  The  shape  of  the  notch  next  to  the  trigger  is 
very  important  but  the  shape  of  the  other  one  is  not  so.  Both 
notches,  however,  must  be  so  smooth  and  well  rounded  as  not  to  in- 
jure the  bowstring.  They  should  be  not  deeper  than  one-half  the 
depth  of  the  groove. 

Arrows  are  quickly  made  by  sawing  long  strips  of  straight-grained 
wood,  3/16"  square,  planing  the  corners,  and  sandpapering;  then 
cutting  them  5"  long,  splitting  the  ends  (see  page  16),  inserting  a 
paper  l"x^"  and  tying  the  end  with  thread. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


87 


5 

o 

03 


\ 


88 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


ELASTIC  GUN— PLATE  28. 

If  cash  carrier  elastic  cord  about  5/16"  in  diameter  and  18" 
long  is  used  on  this  gun,  it  will  shoot  buckshot,  peas,  small  arrows, 
etc.,  with  considerable  force;  in  fact,  if  the  cord  is  fastened  far 
enough  forward,  it  will  require  all  a  boy's  strength  to  pull  the  rider 
back  to  the  hook.  The  gun  may  be  made  of  pine,  whitewood  or  clear 
spruce. 


Fig.  7 


To  lay  out  the  gun  (see  Fig.  7)  first  draw  A|  B,  then  A  C,  then 
measure  B  D  and  draw  C  D;  next  measure  the  width  of  the  barrel 
and  draw  E  F;  add  JH$"  below  this  for  the  gun-stock,  and  finally 
draw  the  curves  freehand.  To  saw  it  out,  first  rip  it  along  E  F, 
then  cross  cut  it  at  H  ,F,  then  rip  it  as  far  the  curve  along  C  D, 
and  then  along  the  lower  side  of  the  gun-stock  to  meet  C  D,  finally 
along  A  B.  Of  course,  none  of  this  sawing  should  quite  touch  the 
lines.  Plane  to  these  lines  wherever  possible,  then  use  the  spoke- 
shave.  The  curve  and  corner  at  F  should  be  pared  with  a  chisel. 
The  lower  edge  of  the  gun-stock  and  barrel  is  made  half-round,  but 
the  upper  edge,  especially  where  the  spring  is  screwed,  is  only  slightly 
round.  The  curve  at  the  butt  of  the  gun-stock  should  be  cut  out  with 
the  turning-saw,  and  rounded  with  a  half-round  file.  The  groove  can 
be  made  as  in  the  bow  pistol.  (See  page  86.) 

All  parts  of  the  gun  should  be  well  sandpapered,  especially  where 
the  elastic  will  rub  on  the  barrel. 

Make  the  trigger  of  tough  wood. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


89 


90  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

Bore  a  y\"  hole  for  the  trigger  post  about  34"  from  the 
back  end  of  the  groove,  making  it  slant  forward  about  24".  Make 
this  hole  smooth  as  possible.  Where  the  hole  comes  thru  the  gun- 
stock,  start  the  mortise  in  which  the  trigger  belongs.  This  should 
be  y&"  deep  and  an  easy  fit  for  the  trigger.  Put  the  trigger  in 
place,  and  drill  a  small  hole  straight  thru  the  gun-stock  andi  trigger. 
Consider  carefully  where  to  bore  this  hole  so  that  it  will  not  come  too 
near  the  edge  of  the  trigger.  Insert  a  good-fitting  brad  and  see  if  the 
trigger  post  will  move  up  and  down  about  y^" ' .  Do  not  make  the 
mortise  so  long  that  the  trigger  post  will  slip  by  the  trigger. 

ISTow  make  the  spring  of  hard  wood.  Pare  the  curve  from  each 
end  with  a  chisel,  holding  the  spring  endwise  in  the  bench-hook.  The 
holes  for  the  screw  and  the  hook  must  be  large  enough  so  that  the 
spring  will  not  be  split,  and  yet  the  hook  must  be  screwed  in  strongly 
to  hold  the  elastic.  The  hook  must  be  filed  off  enough,  and  slanting, 
so  that  the  screw-eye  in  the  rider  will  slide  under  it  and  be  caught. 

The  rider  is  the  hardest  part  to  make  because  it  is  small  and 
must  be  of  hard  wood;  also,  the  block  must  be  nicely  fitted  into  the 
long  piece.  Make  the  lower  edge  of  the  long  piece  round  so  as  to 
slide  well  in  the  groove.  Bore  a  5/16"  hole  thru  the  block  endwise 
the  grain,  countersink  the  ends,  and  smooth  them  so  that  they  can- 
not injure  the  elastic.  Next  lay  out,  saw,  and  chisel  a  notch  5/16" 
deep  in  the  long  piece  in  which  the  block  will  fit  snugly.  Glue  it 
and  nail  it  from  the  under  side,  or  put  in  a  l/>"  screw.  Holes  will 
have  to  be  bored  carefully  for  either  brads  or  screw.  Bore  a  hole,  and 
put  the  screw-eye  in  such  a  position  that  it  will  slide  under  the  hook 
with  a  snap.  Be  careful  not  to  twist  the  eye  off  in  this  hard  wood. 
The  back  end  of  the  eye  might  well  be  filed  somewhat  slanting  so 
as  to  slip  under  the  hook  better. 

Put  the  elastic  thru  the  rider,  snap  the  rider  on  the  hook,  and 
pull  the  ends  of  the  elastic  as  far  as  seems  best, — don't  have  it  too 
strong!  Where  the  ends'  of  the  elastic  are  pulled,  bore  two  *4" 
holesi  thru  the  barrel  one  above  the  other.  Bind  the  elastic  securely 
between  these  holes ;  to  make  it  doubly  secure,  wind  a  string  between 
the  elastic  and  the  barrel  to  pull  the  first  strings  closer  together. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS.  91 

Now  saw  off  the  ends  of  a  spool  about  >^"  and  screw  them  to 
the  barrel  in  such  a  place  that  they  will  hold  the  elastic,  without 
stretching,  against  the  sides  of  the  barrel.  These  spools  should  turn 
easily.  They  cannot  be  placed  exactly  opposite;  because  the  screws 
will  interfere. 

Snap  the  rider  to  the  hook,  pull  the  trigger,  and  notice  that  the 
rider  goes  up  with  the  trigger  post.  To  hold  it  down,  put  a  slender 
34"  screw  on  each  side  of  the  groove  in  such  a  place  that  the  screw 
heads  will  come  over  the  outside  of  the  screw-eye;  or,  1"  brads  may 
be  bent  over  the  screw-eye.  When  everything  is  in  working  order, 
drive  a  1"  brad  on  each  side  of  the  spring  to  keep  the  hook  always  in 
place. 


92  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

KATTLE-BANG  GUN— PLATE  29. 

For  boys  who  want  to  play  soldier,  here  is, a  gun  which  will  make 
a  big  noise  but  will  not  hurt  anybody. 

First,  make  the  rattle  of  maple.  The  slot  in  it  can  be  made  with 
the  rip-saw.  The  solid  end  must  be  nicely  squared  to  fit  the  for- 
ward end  of  the  pocket  cut  out  of  the  gun-stock.  Here  it  must  be 
held  firmly  in  place  by  glue  and  two  screws.  One  screw  is  put 
slanting  from  the  top  of  the  gun-stock;  the  other  is  put  straight 
from  the  bottom.  That  the  rattle  may  sound  the  loudest,  it  must 
not  touch  anywhere  else  than  this  solid  end.  When  putting  the 
knocker  and  trigger  in  place,  see  that  they  also  do  not  touch  the 
rattle.  The  gun-stock  is  made  like  that  of  the  elastic  gun  (Plate  28) 
except  that  it  has  to  be  2ft"  wide  in  that  portion  which  holds 
the  rattle.  The  pocket  is  3J^'  from  the  forward  end  and  l1/^" 
deep  where  the  solid  part  of  the  rattle  fits.  To  put  the  slanting 
screw  in  nicely,  a  place  must  be  cut  out  with  a  small  chisel  for  its 
head,  ft"  deep  and  y2"  away  from  the  pocket.  Clamp  the  rattle  in 
position,  bore  a  hole  for  the  screw,  then  glue  and  screw  the  rattle  in 
place.  Before  the  glue  is  dry,  see  that  the  rattle  is  straight,  then 
put  the  lower  screw  into  it. 

Make  the  knocker  of  maple.  The  reason  for  the  triangular  notch 
in  its  bottom  edge  will  be  evident  when  the  trigger  is  turned  around. 
The  stiffer  the  spring  is,  the  harder,  of  course,  it  will  strike  the  rat- 
tle, and  also,  the  harder  the  trigger  will  turn;  */$"  will  be  thick 
enough  for  the  thinnest  place. 

The  trigger  should  also  be  of  maple.  Join  it  with  a  cross-lap 
joint.  (See  page  24.)  Then,  holding  each  end  successively  up- 
right in  the  vise,  draw  the  slanting  lines  and  saw  for  ft"  length- 
wise in  such  a  way  as  to  leave  1/16"  flat  on  each  of  the  two 
adjacent  surfaces.  After  sawing  endwise,  saw  the  little  corner  pieces 
off  crosswise.  The  trigger  has  to  withstand  considerable  pulling,  so 
it  should  fit  nicely,  yet  easily,  a  1"  screw  in  its  center.  Before 
screwing  either  the  knocker  or  the  trigger  in  place,  lay  both  on  the 
gun-stock  so  that  they  will  engage  properly;  then  mark  the  place  for 
the  screws,  drill  holes,  and  screw  them  on.  If  the  knocker  touches 


MAXUAL  TRAINING   TOYS. 


93 


94 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


the  rattle,  take  it  off  and  plane  a  slanting  chip  or  two  where  it  is 
screwed  to  the  gun-stock.  A  thin  leather  washer  JHs"  in  diameter 
will  prevent  the  trigger  touching.  A  little  soap  will  make  the  trig- 
ger turn  easier. 


Fig.  8 

The  barrel  may  well  be  made  of  a  broomstick.  To  make  it  fit  on 
the  top  of  the  gun-stock,  saw  it  down  the  middle  and  cut  off  the  lower 
half.  Before  fastening  it  in  place,  be  sure  that  it  will  not  touch  the 
sounding  part  of  the  rattle. 

A  still  louder  and  more  difficult  rattle  to  make  is  shown  in  Fig. 
8.  Most  boys  would  find  it  impossible  to  a  bore  a  1"  hole  endwise  in 
maple.  The  knocker  and  trigger  would  both  have  to  be  set  out  from 
the  gun-stock. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS.  95 

BOAT— PLATE  30. 

This  boat  is  designed  rather  heavy  to  insure  good  service.  It  has 
ballast  and  beam  enough  to  right  itself  even  tho  the  sails  do  get  wet. 
If  a  better  looking  boat  is  desired,  draw  the  deck  more  slender;  hol- 
low the  hull  with  bit  and  gouge;  pare  the  gunwales  with  the  spoke- 
shave  to  give  it  some  sheer;  and  nail  on  a  thin  deck.  Soft  pine  is 
the  best  wood  for  the  hull  and  spruce  for  the  spars. 

To  lay  out  the  hull,  draw  a  center-line  lengthwise  on  top,  bot- 
tom, and  ends  of  the  block  of  wood.  Make  all  the  measurements 
given  on  the  deck;  (top  of  the  hull,  Plate  30)  first  lengthwise,  then 
crosswise.  Square  with  the  deck,  the  curve  should  be  worked  out 
with  rip-saw  and  spokeshave.  The  stem  should  next  be  undercut 
with  the  saws  (rip  and  crosscut)  so  as  to  make  place  for  the  rudder. 
On  the  bottom  leave  a  flat  place  7j4"x^"  for  the  keel  to  fit;  then 
round  the  hull  as  suggested  by  the  sectional  drawings  at  AB  and  CD. 

Make  the  keel  and  nail  it  securely  in  place.  From  the  under 
side  of  the  boat  and  slanting  the  same  as  the  keel  and  under-cut, 
bore  a  fy$>"  hole  for  the  stem  of  the  rudder. 

Make  the  rudder  and  tiller  of  *4"  wood.  The  little  mortise  in 
the  tiller  can  be  cut  with  a  small  chisel  after  a  3/16"  hole  is  bored 
at  its  center.  For  the  wheel,  make  a  dowel  about  2"  long  and  into 
one  end  of  it  bore  a  hole  about  1"  deep  for  a  1^4"  screw.  Saw  a 
piece  from  this  end  $/&"  long  and  screw  it  to  the  deck  about  lj£"  in 
front  of  the  hole  bored  for  the  rudder.  The  wheel  should  turn  rather 
hard  so  as  to  stay  in  any  position  desired. 

To  make  the  spars,  (mast,  boom,  etc.,)  follow  the  directions  on 
page  16.  Use  large  screw-eyes  in  the  gaff  and  boom  (or  see  Plate 
16,  "method  of  swinging  booms  to  mast")  and  a  very  small  one  at 
the  top  of  the  mast.  To  nail  the  bowsprit  securely,  place  it  1"  back 
of  the  prow,  drive  a  1"  brad  thru  it  near  the  prow,  and  one  on  each 
side  of  it  Y4"  back.  Bend  these  latter  over  the  bowsprit  before  they 
are  driven  in  their  full  length.  An  upward  slant  is  given  to  the 
bowsprit  by  planing  its  larger  end  slanting  to  fit  the  deck. 


96  MANUAL  TEAINING  TOYS. 

The  rudder  is  hung  on  two  staples  made  of  pins.  Two  headless 
pins  are  driven  into  the  rudder  and  bent  down  at  right  angles  to  slip 
into  these  staples.  In  order  that  the  stem  of  the  rudder  may  turn 
enough,  the  rudder  must  be  hung  close  to  the  hull.  Each  "rope" 
of  the  rigging  should  have  its  own  screw-eye  (or  staple)  and  cleat  on 
the  deck.  The  cleat  (a  device  for  fastening  a  "rope"  in  any  position, 
by  winding  it  back  and  forth)  is  simply  two  slender  brads  driven 
slanting. 

The  mainsail  should  be  9"  on  the  mast  and  11"  at  its  outer  edge. 
It  should  be  hemmed  and  properly  fastened  to  the  spars.  On  the 
mast,  fine  wire  rings  or  loops  of  thread  may  be  used.  The  jib  should 
extend  9"  up  the  stay  (the  "rope"  from  the  end  of  the  bowsprit  to 
the  top  of  the  mast)  and  be  either  sewed  to  it  or  made  to  slide  on 
it  with  small  rings  of  wire. 

Ballast  can  be  cut  (with  tin-shears  or  saw)  from  lead  pipe  and 
nailed  to  the  keel.  To  drive  brads  thru  lead,  pinch  them  between 
the  thumb  and  finger,  and  drive  them  gently. 

For  convenience  in  holding  the  boat  when  it  is  out  of  the  water, 
make  a  dry  dock  as  shown  in  the  drawing. 


MANUAL  TKAINING  TOYS. 


97 


BOAT 


LONG 

WIDE 

THICK 

HULL 

\l 

4i 

a 

MAINS4IL 

KEEL 

Tj. 

5 

i 

RUDDER 

ft 

ii 

i 

CLEAT 

TILLER 

i 

i 

WHEEL 

i 

i£! 

M. 

WHEEL 

MAST 

14 

16 

BOOM 

9 

i 

BOOM 

GAFF 

5 

i 

RUDDER 

BOWSPRIT 

6 

i 

| 

ENDS    B'O'CK 

4 

2* 

i 

| 

MIDDLE 

4 

2. 

i 

PLATE  30 


98  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS.  

PILE-DRIVER—PLATE  31. 

In  wet,  soft  soil,  wherever  any  building  operations  are  to  be  un- 
dertaken, long,  straight  logs  called  piles  have  first  to  be  driven  to 
support  the  foundation.  In  wet  soil  they  never  rot;  those  driven 
for  the  building  of  Venice  centuries  ago  are  still  solid.  If  holes 
are  bored  in  the  weight  of  this  toy  pile-driver,  it  is  made  more  ef- 
fective. 

This  is  not  a  difficult  model  if  each  part  is  well  made.  It  is  im- 
portant, however,  to  nail  it  in  the  following  order:  Runs  to  up- 
rights, uprights  to  sides,  sides  to  base,  top  to  uprights,  braces  to  up- 
rights, then  to  base.  The  ends  of  the  braces  are  mitered,  that  is, 
sawed,  like  the  corner  of  a  picture-frame,  on  the  diagonal  of  a  square. 
The  axle  of  the  little  spool  is  made  by  two  1"  brads,  and  it  rests  in 
notches  as  near  the  end  of  the  top  blocks  as  is  convenient  to  file 
them.  It  is  held  in  place  by  little  brads,  or  pins  crossed  over  it,  or 
by  a  staple  made  of  a  pin.  A  crank  for  the  big  spool  (called  the 
drum)  is  made  of  a  3"  piece  of  stiff  wire.  It  should  be  flattened 
enough  not  to  turn  in  the  drum.  Fasten  the  string  to  the  drum  thru 
a  little  hole  drilled  thru  its  rim.  If  the  string  comes  off  the  upper 
spool,  put  a  large  screw-eye  into  the  top  piece  and  pass  the  string 
thru  it. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


99 


Q 

UJ 

_J 

O- 


100  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

WINDMILL— PLATE   32. 

On  a  hilltop,  exposed  to  every  wind  that  blows,  one  of  these 
windmills  made  by  a  boy  has  been  spinning  around  for  four  years. 
The  windmill  in  this  form  serves  also  as  a  weathervane.  Pine  is  the 
best  wood  for  this  model.  To  withstand  the  weather,  the  model 
should  be  painted. 

After  planing  the  post  to  size,  lay  out  the  chamfers  (see  page 
32)  with  a  pencil  on  all  four  sides.  The  curve  should  be  cut  with 
a  knife;  the  upper  part  may  be  planed  if  the  square  part  is  not 
squeezed  in  the  vise.  Plane  the  two  pieces  for  the  vanes  as  accurately 
as  possible  so  as  to  be  able  to  make  a  good  joint.  Lay  out  and  cut 
this  joint  as  directed  on  page  24.  After  it  is  well  fitted,  draw 
the  curves  where  the  edges  are  to  be  whittled  away.  There  are  six- 
teen of  them.  Open  the  compass  24"  and  place  the  needle  point  al- 
ways on  the  front  right-hand  edge  as  the  wheel  turns  around.  The 
curve  begins  %"  from  the  joint  and  ends  %"  from  the  back  edge 
(one  also  goes  towards  the  lower  edge).  From  this  point  draw  a 
straight  line  to  the  end  of  the  vane.  Draw  such  lines  as  explained 
on  page  32.  Take  the  joint  apart  and  whittle  the  edges  away  to 
these  curves. 

On  the  beam,  make  chamfers  1%"  long.  At  the  rear  end,  on  the 
top  and  bottom,  draw  a  center-line  and  two  lines  on  each  side  of  the 
center-line  ^"  apart.  Between  the  first  two,  nearest  the  center- 
line,  make  the  V-shaped  groove  in  which  the  rudder  fits.  The  sides 
of  the  beam  are  to  be  pared  away  to  the  other  two  lines,  leaving  this 
end  y2"  wide. 

The  curves  at  the  rear  end  of  the  rudder  can  be  sawed  best  with 
a  scroll  saw.  Lacking  that,  proceed  as  follows:  First,  bore  a  ^4" 
hole  near  the  short  straight  line  in  the  middle.  Kesting  the  rudder 
on  a  cutting  board,  pare  to  this  line  with  a  chisel.  Next,  saw  straight 
from  the  end  of  the  rudder  to  this  straight  line;  then  saw  the  cor- 
ners, and  pare  to  the  curves.  The  width  of  the  notch  at  the  front 
end  of  the  rudder  is  equal  to  the  space  left  between  the  roots  of  the 
V-shaped  notches  in  the  beam.  Measure  this  space,  lay  out  the 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


101 


WINDMILL 


RUDDtR 


SECTION    AT    CD 


POST 


VANES 


PLATE  33 


102  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

notch,  saw,  and  chisel  it;  then  pare  the  corners  so  as  to  fit  the  V- 
shaped  notches  in  the  beam.  Beware  of  crowding  the  rudder,  for  it 
will  split  easily.  When  fitted,  glue  and  nail  it  in  place,  slanting  a 
1"  brad  thru  the  curve  into  the  beam. 

Put  the  wheel  on  the  beam  with  two  washers  and  a  large  screw 
(2"  No.  12  round  head  is  a  good  one).  For  this  screw  bore  a  %" 
hole  thru  the  center  of  the  wheel,  and  a  smaller  hole  in  the  beam. 
Now  balance  the  windmill  on  the  top  of  the  post,  and  put  the  beam 
and  post  together  with  washers  and  screw  in  the  same  manner. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS.  103 


KITE-STRING  REEI^— PLATE  33. 

A  boy  who  flies  kites  will  appreciate  this  reel  for  hauling  in  his 
kite  quickly  and  keeping  the  string  in  order.  The  axle  is  made  long 
for  the  purpose  of  putting  on  a  brake  when  letting  out  a  kite.  The 
brake  is  simply  a  strong  cord,  fastened  to  a  screw  in  the  lower  part 
of  the  further  upright,  (as  viewed  in  Plate  33)  wound  several  times 
around  the  axle,  and  the  other  end  held  in  the  hand.  A  1"  hole  is 
bored  in  the  base  so  that  the  reel  can  be  anchored  to  the  ground  with 
a  stake.  With  a  loop  of  string  fastened  to  the  upright  below  the 
crank,  the  crank  can  be  kept  from  turning,  if  one  does  not  wish  to 
let  out  all  of  the  kite-string. 

Make  the  base  first,  then  the  uprights.  In  the  uprights,  it  is 
more  convenient  to  bore  the  9/16"  holes  before  the  sides  are  planed 
slanting.  After  the  wheel  pieces  are  joined  in  the  manner  explained 
on  page  24,  lay  out  the  slanting  lines  on  each  arm  while  the 
joint  is  still  together;  then  take  it  apart  and  plane  to  the  slanting 
lines.  Hold  each  piece  securely  slantwise  in  the  vise,  because  one 
pair  especially  is  apt  to  split  from  the  notch  outward.  When  this 
planing  is  finished,  glue  the  joint  and  bore  a  V2"  hole  straight  thru 
the  center.  If  convenient,  make  the  cross  pieces  in  one  long  piece, 
20",  planing  off  one  corner  flat  (see  sectional  drawing,  Plate  33) 
within  y§'  of  the  two  adjacent  corners.  Being  careful  to  drive  no 
brad  into  the  YZ"  hole,  glue  and  nail  these  four  cross  pieces  to  one 
wheel.  Then  glue  them  to  the  other  wheel  and  wind  some  string 
around  tightly  enough  to  hold  this  wheel  while  adjusting  and  nail- 
ing it.  It  will  require  care  to  get  the  cross  pieces  square  with  the 
first  wheel,  and  the  second  wheel  parallel  with  the  first.  After  the 
string  is  wound  around  to  hold  the  second  wheel,  measure  the  dis- 
tance from  wheel  to  wheel  at  the  ends  of  all  the  arms.  The  nail- 
ing can  be  done  while  one  arm  of  the  wheels  is  held  in  the  vise.  The 
axle  and  handle  should  be  glued  and  nailed  to  the  crank.  Now  put 
the  reel  together,  not  forgetting  the  washers  inside  the  uprights,  and 
lock  the  wheels  to  the  axle  by  drilling  a  hole  for  a  2"  nail  thru  cross 
piece,  wheel,  and  axle. 


104 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


105 


O 


103ld       0 


106  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

STKING  MACHINE— PLATE  34. 

On  a  machine  like  this,  one  can  twist  bowstrings,  topstrings,  fish- 
lines,  silk  cord  for  fancy  work,  and  any  similar  cord.  Tho  designed 
to  be  held  on  the  floor  or  table  with  flat-irons,  clamps,  of  course,  will 
hold  it  better. 

Make  the  tail  piece  first.  In  the  cross  pieces  of  the  tail  piece  are 
two  screws  %"  from  the  ends;  be  careful  to  bore  the  holes  large 
enough  so  the  screws  will  not  split  them.  The  edges  of  the  lower 
cross  piece  must  be  sandpapered  enough  not  to  cut  the  elastic  bands. 

In  order  that  the  belt  shall  run  on  the  center  of  the  wheels  in 
the  head  piece,  it  is  important  to  have  the  three  axles  parallel.  To 
make  them  so,  the  two  uprights  must  be  clamped  together  while 
boring  the  ^4"  holes  for  the  axles.  Lest  the  spur  of  the  bit  split 
the  uprights,  drill  small  holes  at  each  center  first.  Do  not  nail 
the  longer  upright  to  the  base  until  the  belt  runs  well  in  both  direc- 
tions. On  a  lathe,  the  wheels  and  axles  could  easily  be  made  of  one 
piece ;  lacking  a  lathe,  a  big  spool  or  curtain  pole  must  be  used.  Plug 
the  hole  of  the  spool  with  a  dowel,  then  very  accurately  find  its  cen- 
ter and  bore  a  y%"  hole  thru  it.  Saw  it  into  three  y%'  pieces  for 
the  wheels.  Glue  these  to  the  axles  so  that  1"  extends  thru  the  taller 
upright.  A  belt  runs  better  on  a  wheel  that  is  "crowned,"  that  is, 
slightly  larger  in  the  middle;  so  the  edges  of  these  wheels  must  be 
pared  1/32",  making  a  gentle  curve.  Put  the  washers  each  side  of 
the  wheels,  then  put  the  wheels  in  place  in  the  taller  upright,  and 
nail  this  to  the  triangular  block.  Pull  a  ^"  leather  belt  tightly 
around  the  three  wheels  and  sew  the  ends  so  that  they  butt  together. 
Clamp  the  shorter  upright  in  position  and  turn  the  upper  axle  to 
see  if  the  belt  runs  well  in  both  directions.  It  will  run  true  when 
all  three  axles  are  parallel,  so  keep  knocking  the  shorter  upright 
from  side  to  side  or  up  and  down  until  the  belt  does  run  true ;  then 
bore  holes  for  three  screws  to  hold  it  to  the  triangular  block.  Make 
the  crank  and  lock  it  to  the  upper  axle  with  a  y2"  screw. 

To  twist  a  string,  set  the  two  parts  of  the  machine  somewhat 
farther  apart  than  the  finished  length  desired,  put  on  as  many 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS.  107 


threads,  from  hooks  on  the  tail  piece  to  corresponding  hooks  on  the 
head  piece,  as  will  make  the  finished  string  the  desired  size.  Ob- 
serve how  these  separate  threads  were  twisted,  and  start  the  machine 
in  the  opposite  way.  Twist  until  the  three  strands  kink  readily  when 
the  head  piece  is  brought  nearer  the  tail  piece.  The  tighter  these 
are  twisted,  the  harder  the  string  will  be.  (Soap  rubbed  on  the  in- 
side of  the  belt  may  make  the  belt  carry  more  power).  When  these 
three  strands  are  twisted  enough,  remove  the  two  lower  ones  from 
their  hooks  on  iJie  head  piece  to  the  upper  hook.  Twist  in  the  op- 
posite direction  until  the  string  kinks  again,  and  it  is  made.  If  the 
three  strands  are  waxed,  a  stronger  string  will  be  made. 


108  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

WINDMILL  FORCE-PUMP—PLATE  35. 

If  this  pump  is  properly  connected  with  an  air  chamber,  as  ex- 
plained later,  it  will  send  a  small  stream  of  water  some  ten  feet.  In 
a  gale,  the  windmill  is  strong  enough,  in  fact,  to  force  the  valves 
from  the  glass  tubes.  Like  any  model  of  considerable  mechanism, 
this  will  require  patience  to  get  it  in  working  order.  The  post  is 
made  short  for  stability.  If  it  can  be  held  in  place  firmly,  a  trestle- 
work  tower  like  a  real  windmill  might  be  built  of  stock  J4"xj£"  for 
the  corner  posts  and  5^"x/4"  f°r  the  braces. 

The  post  is  slanting  on  two  sides  to  fit  the  journals  at  the  top. 
It  is  fastened  to  the  base  with  two  2"  screws.  Make  the  wheel  cen- 
ter 2^$"  square,  and  thru  its  center  bore  a  J4"  hole.  If  it  does  not 
revolve  true,  make  another  block  and.  try  again.  Make  the  block 
octagonal  by  cutting  off  each  corner  ^".  On  each  of  the  eight  faces 
saw  notches  y&"  wide  and  5/16"  deep  into  which  the  vanes  will  fit. 
(See  page  64  on  cutting  notches.)  Make  and  glue  the  vanes  in  place 
and  lay  the  wheel  flat  to  dry. 

Procure  three  pieces  of  water-gage  glass  2"  long,  7/16"  to  yi' 
inside  diameter.  Glass  tubes  can  be  broken  apart  by  filing  a  slight 
notch,  grasping  the  tube  firmly  each  side  of  the  notch,  and  pulling 
and  bending  the  tube  away  from  the  notch.  If  the  file  starts  a  little 
break,  this  will  be  comparatively  easy,  if  it  does  not,  file  some  more. 
Into  two  tubes  little  valves  must  be  cemented.  These  can  be  made 
of  a  firm  piece  of  leather.  Sole  leather  that  is  not  too  hard  is  best. 
With  knife  or  chisel,  pare  two  pieces  on  the  cutting  board  to  fit  in 
the  tubes.  The  cement  will  make  them  water  tight  later.  Push  the 
sharp  point  of  a  penknife  into  the  smooth  side  of  the  leather  disk 
and  make  a  circular  cut,  as  one  would  remove  a  speck  from  an  apple, 
but  do  not  cut  the  flap  completely  out,  because  it  must  be  left  hinged 
to  the  disk.  Turn  this  flap  up  straight  out  of  the  way  so  as  to  be 
able  to  work  &  %"  hole  thru  the  disk.  This  can  be  punched,  drilled, 
or  cut  out  with  a  y%"  chisel,  and  finished  with  a  penknife.  Of 
course,  the  edges  of  the  flap  should  cover  this  hole  completely.  The 
valve  in  the  lowest  tube  should  be  cemented  about  y2"  from  the  lower 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 


109 


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110  MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS. 

end  with  the  flap  up,  that  in  the  horizontal  tube  about  24"  from  the 
outer  end  with  the  flap  out.  To  make  sealing-wax  sticky  enough  to 
cement  these  valves  in  the  tubes,  melt  one  teaspoon  of  wax  with  one- 
half  teaspoon  of  turpentine  .in  a  large  spoon,  and  allow  it  to  cool. 
Break  it  in  pieces  small  enough  to  go  in  the  tubes.  Put  the  valve 
in  the  tube  a  little  to  one  side  of  its  final  position;  put  in  some  of 
the  wax  mixture;  heat  the  tube  in  an  alcohol  flame,  rolling  the  tube 
till  the  wax  begins  to  melt;  remove  from  the  flame;  and  when  the 
wax  is  all  melted,  push  the  valve  to  its  final  position  with  a  pencil. 
While  it  is  cooling,  see  that  the  wax  does  not  flow  into  the  valve. 
All  three  tubes  must  have  a  piece  of  rubber  tubing  on  the  outside 
to  serve  as  packing  in  the  wooden  block.  With  an  expansive  bit, 
holes  can  be  bored  in  the  block  so  that  the  rubber  tubing  will  fit 
tightly.  Lacking  that,  bore  a  smaller  hole  and  enlarge  it  with  a 
round  file.  The  center  of  the  vertical  hole  is  somewhat  to  the  left 
(as  viewed  in  Plate  35)  of  the  center  of  the  block  to  allow  the  hori- 
zontal tube  more  support.  This  will  require  the  notch  in  the  upright 
also  to  be  to  the  left  of  the  center.  After  the  holes  are  bored,  the 
pores  of  the  wood  must  be  filled  with  paraffin.  In  a  little  dish,  melt 
some  paraffin  and  put  it  into  the  holes  with  a  rag  tied  to  a  stick. 
When  the  holes  are  well  covered,  drive  the  wax  into  the  wood  with 
an  alcohol  or  candle  flame  held  in  the  hole  till  the  wood  is  fairly  hot. 
The  outside  of  the  block  might  well  be  treated  in  like  manner.  It 
will  be  best  to  cement  these  tubes  in  their  places.  Melt  a  tablespoon 
of  sealing  wax  with  about  as  much  turpentine.  With  this,  not  too 
hot,  build  up  a  good  fillet  over  the  rubber  tubing  *4",  perhaps,  on 
the  glass  tubes. 

Make  a  good  fitting  piston  for  the  upper  tube;  it  must  not  slide 
hard  (oil  it)  and  yet  it  must  be  air  tight.  To  make  the  piston  file 
two  grooves  y2"  apart  around  and  near  the  end  of  the  piston  rod. 
Wind  a  hummock  of  yarn  between  these  grooves  till  it  almost  fills 
the  tube,  then  wrap  a  piece  of  soft  cloth  (knitted  underwear) 
smoothly  over  the  hummock,  tying  it  in  each  groove  with  thread. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS.  Ill 


Lock  the  crank  to  the  axle  with  a  ^2"  screw.  Adjust  the  axle 
and  keep  it  in  position  with  two  leather  washers  locked  to  the  axle 
just  outside  the  journals.  Clamp  the  block  to  the  base,  adjust  it  in 
line  with  the  crank,  and  fasten  it  with  two  1^"  screws  up  thru  the 
base.  The  last  connection  to  make  is  between  the  crank  and  con- 
necting-rod. To  make  this,  raise  the  piston  to  its  highest  position, 
and  turn  the  crank  to  its  lowest;  choose  what  seems  the  best  point 
for  the  screw,  marking  the  point  on  crank  and  connecting-rod;  now 
lower  the  piston  and  raise  the  crank;  if  the  two  points  do  not  come 
together,  the  screw  should  be  placed  half  way  between  them.  This 
screw  should  be  tight  in  the  crank.  The  wheel  can  now  be  glued  to 
the  axle  or  locked  with  a  brad  slanting  from  the  front  of  the  wheel 
center. 

Before  they  will  work,  the  valves  must  be  made  limber  with 
water,  and  to  start  the  pump,  water  may  have  to  be  put  on  each  side 
of  the  valves.  Water  may  be  pumped  to  any  height  by  fastening  a 
pipe  to  the  horizontal  tube.  To  obtain  a  steady  stream,  like  a  fire- 
engine,  connect  the  horizontal  tube  with  an  air-tight  bottle.  The 
pipe  which  goes  into  this  bottle  should  reach  just  below  the  stopper. 
The  outlet  pipe  should  nearly  reach  the  bottom  of  the  bottle,  and  it 
should  have  a  nozzle  smaller  than  any  other  opening  in  the  whole 
apparatus.  The  bottle  should  be  partly  full  of  water.  Quarter-inch 
glass  tubing  can  be  melted  and  shaped  in  an  alcohol  flame,  and,  if 
some  rubber  tubing  is  used  as  a  connection,  the  nozzle  can  be  played 
anywhere. 


BOOKS    for    BOYS 


Especially  Helpful  for  the  Use  of  Boys 
in  their  Home  Shops 


BEGINNING   WOODWORK,  At  Home  and  in  School. 

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A  full  and  clear  description  in  detail  of  the  fundamental  processes  of  ele- 
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MANUAL    TRAINING    TOYS,  for  the  Boys' Workshop. 
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Price,  $1.00. 

The  CONSTRUCTION  and  FLYING  of  KITES. 

By  Charles  M.  Miller. 

A  book  of  unusual  interest  to  the  boy.  It  contains  seven  full-page  plates  of 
drawings  of  kites  and  fifteen  figures — over  forty  kites  shown.  Details  of  con- 
struction are  given  and  a  kite  tournament  is  described.  Full  of  interesting  sug- 
gestions. Price,  20  cents. 

ESSENTIALS  of  WOODWORKING. 

By  Ira  S.  Griffith. 

A  textbook  written  especially  for  the  use  of  grammar  and  high  school  stu- 
dents. A  clear  and  comprehensive  treatment  of  woodworking  tools,  materials,  and 
processes,  to  supplement,  but  not  to  take  the  place  of  the  instruction  given  by 
the  teacher.  The  book  does  not  contain  a  course  of  models;  it  may  be  used  with 
any  course.  It  is  illustrated  with  photographs  and  numerous  pen  drawings. 
Price,  $1.00. 


THE     MANUAL    ARTS     PRESS 

PEORIA,     ILLINOIS 


BOOKS    for    BOYS 


The  "Problems  Series"  of  Working  Drawings, 
Good  for  Either  Home  or  School  Use 


PROJECTS  for  BEGINNING  WOODWORK  and 
MECHANICAL  DRAWING. 

By  Ira  S.  Griffith. 

A  work  book  for  the  use  of  students  in  grammar  grade  classes.  It  consists 
of  working  drawings  and  working  directions.  The  projects  are  such  as  have 
proven  of  exceptional  service  where  woodworking  and  mechanical  drawing  are 
taught  in  a  thoro,  systematic  manner  in  the  seventh  and  eighth  grades.  The  aim 
has  been  to  provide  successful  rather  than  unique  problems.  The  fifty  projects  in 
the  book  have  been  selected  and  organized  with  the  constant  aim  of  securing  the 
highest  educational  results.  The  book  is  especially  suited  for  use  in  connection 
with  "Essentials  of  Woodworking"  by  the  same  author.  Price,  75  cents. 

PROBLEMS  in  WOODWORKING. 

By  M.  W.  Murray. 

A  convenient  collection  of  good  problems  consisting  of  forty  plates  bound 
in  heavy  paper  covers  with  brass  fasteners.  Each  plate  is  a  working  drawing,  or 
problem  in  benchwork  that  has  been  successfully  worked  out  by  boys  in  one  of  the 
grades  from  seven  to  nine  inclusive.  Price,  75  cents.  Board  covers,  95  cents. 

ADVANCED  PROJECTS  in  WOODWORK. 

By  Ira  S.  Griffith. 

This  book  is  similar  to  "Projects  for  Beginning  Woodwork  and  Mechanical 
Drawing,"  but  is  suited  to  high  school  needs.  It  consists  of  fifty  plates  of  prob- 
lems and  accompanying  notes.  It  is  essentially  a  collection  of  problems  in  furni- 
ture making  selected  or  designed  with  reference  to  school  use.  On  the  plate  with 
each  working  drawing  is  a  good  perspective  sketch  of  the  completed  object.  In 
draftsmanship  and  refinement  of  design  these  problems  are  of  superior  quality. 
It  is  in  every  respect  an  excellent  collection.  Price,  $1.00. 


THE     MANUAL     ARTS     PRESS 

PEORIA,     ILLINOIS 


BOOKS    for    BOYS 


The  "Problems  Series"  of  Working  Drawings 
Good  for  Either  Home  or  School  Use 


PROBLEMS  in  FURNITURE  MAKING. 

By  Fred  D.  Crawshaw. 

This  book,  revised  and  enlarged,  consists  of  43  full-page  plates  of  working 
drawings  suitable  for  use  in  grammar  and  high  schools  and  36  pages  of  text, 
including  chapters  on  design,  construction  and  finishes,  and  notes  on  the  prob- 
lems. Each  project  is  shown  in  its  completed  form  by  a  perspective  sketch. 
Loose  leaf,  bound  in  board  covers  with  brass  fasteners.  Price,  $1.00. 


PROBLEMS  in  WOOD-TURNING. 

By  Fred  D.  Crawshaw. 

In  the  first  place  this  is  a  book  of  problems — 25  plates  covering  spindle,  face- 
plate, and  chuck  turning.  In  the  second  place  it  is  a  textbook  on  the  science 
and  art  of  wood-turning  illustrated  by  fifty  pen  sketches.  It  gives  the  mathe- 
matical basis  for  the  cuts  used  in  turning.  In  the  third  place  it  is  a  helpful 
discussion  of  the  principles  of  design  as  applied  to  objects  turned  in  wood.  It  is 
a  clear,  practical  and  suggestive  book  on  wood-turning.  Price,  80  cents.  Board 
covers,  $1.00. 


PROBLEMS  in  MECHANICAL  DRAWING. 

By  Charles  A.  Bennett.     With  drawings  made  by  Fred  D.  Crawshaw. 

This  book  consists  of  80  plates  and  a  few  explanatory  notes,  and  is  bound  in 
heavy  paper  covers  with  brass  fasteners.  Its  purpose  is  to  furnish  teachers  of 
classes  beginning  mechanical  drawing  with  a  large  number  of-  simp'e,  practical 
problems.  These  have  been  selected  with  reference  to  the  formation  of  good 
habits  in  technique,  the  interest  of  the  pupils,  and  the  subjects  generally  included 
in  a  grammar  and  first-year  high  school  course.  Each  problem  given  is  unsolved 
and  therefore  in  proper  form  to  hand  to  the  pupil  for  so'ution.  Price,  $1.00. 
Board  covers,  $1.20. 


THE    MANUAL     ARTS     PRESS 

PEORIA,     ILLINOIS 


BOOKS    for    BOYS 


Some  Choice  Books  for  Home  or 
School  Libraries 


HANDWORK  in  WOOD. 

By  William  Noyes. 

A  handbook  for  teachers  and  a  textbook  for  normal  school  and  college  stu- 
dents. A  comprehensive  and  scholarly  treatise,  covering  logging,  sawmilling,  sea- 
soning and  measuring,  hand  tools,  wood  fastenings,  equipment  and  care  of  the 
shop,  the  common  joints,  types  of  wood  structures,  principles  of  joinery,  and  wood 
finishing.  304  illustrations — excellent  pen  drawings  and  many  photographs. 
Price,  $2.00. 


WOOD  and  FOREST. 

By  William  Noyes. 

A  companion  volume  to  "Handwork  in  Wood,"  by  the  same  author.  Especially 
adapted  as  a  reference  book  for  teachers  of  woodworking.  Not  too  difficult  for 
use  as  a  textbook  for  normal  school  and  college  students.  Treats  of  wood,  dis- 
tribution of  American  forests,  life  of  the  forest,  enemies  of  the  forest,  destruc- 
tion, conservation  and  uses  of  the  forest,  with  a  key  to  the  common  woods  by 
Filibert  Roth.  Describes  67  principal  species  of  wood  with  maps  of  the  habitat, 
leaf  drawings,  life"  size  photographs  and  microphotographs  of  sections.  Contains 
a  general  bibliography  of  books  and  articles  on  wood  and  forest.  Profusely  il- 
lustrated with  photographs  from  the  United  States  forest  service  and  with  pen 
and  ink  drawings  by  Anna  Gausmann  Noyes  and  photographs  by  the  author.  309 
pages.  Price,  $3.00. 


BOOKS  on  the  MANUAL  ARTS. 

A  catalog  listing  and  describing  260  books  on  the  manual  arts,  including  all 
the  standard  and  the  best  of  the  recent  publications.  It  is  an  up-to-date  bibliog- 
raphy and  a  valuable  reference  book  for  teachers,  librarians  and  all  interested  in 
manual,  industrial,  and  vocational  education.  Mailed  free  on  request. 


THE    MANUAL    ARTS     PRESS 

PEORIA,     ILLINOIS 


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